That might be one way of describing the positioning that one of the latest brands to find its place on the broad watchmaking market seems to be claiming. Because those who believed that watchmaking genius had died out during the 19th century with the demise of names such as Breguet, Jaquet-Droz or the English and German dynasties are reconsidering this opinion: a handful of independent brands are busy igniting the flame of creativity and regaining the taste for perfection that once fired their illustrious predecessors. Among them, De Bethune demonstrates an amazing mastery of the tricky alchemist’s blend of tradition and technology, while adding the zest of innovation that places the brand at the peak of the watchmaking world. Concrete proof is given in this test bench, dealing with a perpetual calendar with a name, DB15, reminiscent of the type of reference names given for models by a famous automobile manufacturer...

The exterior
At first glance, there is no need to turn over the case of the DB15 and to look to see what the sapphire crystal case-back has to reveal in order to feel that characteristic quiver of excitement which indicates that one is looking at a dense concentration of craftsmanship and precision. The case with a diameter of 43 mm features the cone-shaped horns that have become a brand signature, rendering the presence of a maker's mark virtually unnecessary. The solid gold dial is characterised by several harmonious linked levels and the indications of the perpetual calendar functions are arranged in a perfectly legible way. Each of them has its own aperture unspoilt by any superfluous inscriptions. The moon phase is the main attraction, since it is displayed in three dimensions – a first in a wristwatch. The assembly of two blued steel and platinum half-spheres spins around an axis at an angle perfectly corresponding to that of the earth’s satellite. The hour and minute hands glide easily over it thanks to their delicate albatros-wing shape, thus avoiding the need to use an unattractive hand-fitting height. The sapphire crystal has been given a particularly effective and resistant glareproofing treatment.

The movement
It stems from the brilliant mind of Denis Flageollet, whose name will doubtless soon be appearing in textbooks for apprentice watchmakers and in the history books. The innovation of his design carries echoes of the modernism displayed once upon a time by a certain Da Vinci. In addition to the twin barrels guaranteeing an excellent power-reserve and optimal efficiency, informed connoisseurs will be immediately struck by the balance-cock/balance/balance-spring assembly. In its latest execution, the revolutionary balance is composed of three titanium arms, for a maximum of lightness in the centre, each carrying a pointed weight intended to increase the overall inertia. The flat balance-spring is directly screwed into a concentric recess in the cock. The absence of a balance-spring buckle thus enables optimal (dynamic) rating as well as precious energy saving, with the regulating organ oscillating at a cadence of 28,800 vph. This famous moon is placed on an arbor measuring four tenths of a millimetre in diameter, carrying a cone-shaped pinion. The mechanism driving it takes account of the days, hours and minutes of the length of the phase, enabling it to diverge from reality by just one day in 128 years. What more can one say, except that the finishing of this movement is naturally impeccable, that the perpetual calendar is integrated directly and that this precious mechanism has already been designed to drive other complications or to house a self-winding mechanism?

The tests
The state of advancement of the first movements unfortunately did not enable us to perform tests on a finished watch. However, five base movements were tested before being cased up and without the perpetual calendar. Since the power-reserves were all measured between 126 and 132 hours, the rating measurements were performed after one hour in operation and then repeated after 100 hours. After one hour in operation, the range of amplitudes in horizontal positions was around 320°, while no movement dropped below 280° in vertical positions. Whatever the position, the variations in rate all fell between –5 and +5 secs./day.

After 100 hours in operation, no amplitude was measured below 230° in horizontal position and 200° in vertical positions. Here too, all variations in rate, whatever the position, ranged between –5 and + 5 secs./day. After one hour in operation, the maximum differences in rating between the positions (delta) was 6 seconds, and 9 seconds after 100 hours.

Although it could not be measured in the usual conditions, these results proved to be excellente and the quality of craftsmanship of this perpetual calendar enable one to presume that it will not turn out to be too “greedy” and will barely affect the rating qualities.

In conclusion
The DB15 embodies a perfection that no industrialised production could ever hope to equal. By reaching this new peak, De Bethune reminds us that contemporary Belle Horlogerie definitely exists and that watchmaking genius does not merely belong in auction rooms or in museums.