In the past two years, you have developed a new positioning for Zenith as well as a new retailer network: has the brand now been fully relaunched?
We have indeed succeeded in putting the brand where we wanted to. On the one hand, we have finalised of careful choice of retailers; and on the other, we have regenerated the market on the three main continents – North America, Asia and Europe. Moreover, the entire range of models has been renewed; we have created nine new movements, while fostering constant improvements on the existing calibres. Zenith is now asserting itself as a brand combining the watchmaking art with which it has been familiar for the past 140 years, with the art of luxury infused by the LVMH group.
When one sees the investments being made by certain Geneva-based “Manufactures”, one may well wonder whether LVMH is prepared to match them…?
That is exactly what the group started doing through the “Georges Favremarque, Jacot” plan* implemented from 2001 to 2003 after taking over Zenith. Not only have all machines been backed up by a double, and the production facility entirely modernised, but the number of personnel has also risen 50% to reach 250. And it's not over yet. In light of the brand's success we need to invest more in order to meet demand. What is more, we are producing a larger number of movements for Louis Vuitton and the new collection of mechanical watches by Dior. The group is thus set to make new investments, both in CNC machines (each of which costs half a million Swiss francs) and in property renovation.
Would a decision by the group to sell off the brand change anything for Zenith?
That is definitely not on the cards at the moment. Zenith is a star brand with powerful leverage. The relationship with the group is extremely strong: Zenith ideally rounds out a portfolio of watch brands with very different profiles, while the group contributes both its passion for creativity (expressed through brands such as Louis Vuitton or Veuve Cliquot) and the power of its expertise in the business sphere (finance, marketing, international trade, etc.).
How do you manage to transmit your energy and your enthusiasm through all echelons of the company?
I believe that energy, sharing and passion are essential management values. The success of a company is largely based on effectively spreading these values. There are warm values such as creativity and design, and cold values such as development technologies. One needs to teach others to experience their passion and to fulfil their potential in a profession: in a word to live with their feet on the ground and their head in the stars. I sometimes compare myself to a gardener who strives to help the best in everyone to blossom and flower. Every day, I pay tribute to my watchmaker-craftsmen: they are just so brilliant! As for the Zenith Design Studio, it ably replaces any advertising agencies. I sleep very little, make daily phone calls to those in charge of the Asian markets at 5 am when I get up and to those in the USA at midnight when I go to bed. It is a genuine human adventure that I try to share with my entire team.
How can you convince customers and retailers of the strength of the product?
Customers have already understood this and the results are there to prove it. Japan is now our top market, followed by the USA, and we are off to a strong start in China, Hong Kong and Taiwan. Zenith is in the forefront of brands heading for the economic zones which now represent the world economy’s “locomotives”. In parallel, Europe has responded very favourable to the brand “awakening”, whether in Spain, France, England or in Russia. The next key phases target India and the Middle East, and the Haute Horlogerie models we are launching this year** will help us in this respect.
Will the seductive overtures being made towards women be extended?
Its success is such that we cannot stop now. Sales of ladies’ watches accounted for 10% last year, and we should be able to stabilise this at around 25% in the medium term. We now have our two worlds: masculine and feminine. Women are thrilled to be able to treat themselves to a beautiful ladies watch equipped with an El Primero movement. They are even calling it “El Primera”! We are now offering them a double collection, El Primero and Elite, with variations organised by theme. The Glam'Rock woman will be very excited about our Chronomaster Babystar in leather with its funky wristband.
* Founder of the Manufacture in 1865
** see in particular the El Primero Grande Date Tourbillon in the Antiquorum section


