Casting a glance back over the not too distant past, one soon realises that the manufacturers of chronograph movements became an increasingly rare breed over the past half a century, to the point where they could be counted on the fingers of one hand. During this period, enlightened connoisseurs did not buy such and such a brand, but rather one of the available calibres “clothed” by such or such a brand. Faced with the dramatic situation in which the Swiss network of watchmaking suppliers has not adapted its production capacity to the development of the sector, and driven by a concern to ensure the authenticity of their image and their products, most of the manufacturers capable of making the investments required for such a development are now presenting their own chronograph movement. This is certainly beneficial to this fascinating industry as a whole.

For once, Chopard belies the famous Italian proverb “chi va piano va sano” that advocates a steady, measured pace in development, since company co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele rapidly seized the opportunity of the 10th anniversary of its manufacture in Fleurier to present the Chrono One, the latest newcomer to the growing L.U.C family and duly equipped with the brand’s brand-new chronograph movement.

The aesthetic appearance of this model refl ects that which has characterised all products by the brand for the past two years. A skilfully proportioned and rounded case, sunray-brushed dial, distinctive numerals and hands: the Chopard identity is clearly evident in a host of details. The master-touch of the brand’s designers doubtless lies in their ability to adapt these codes to the specific technical characteristics of each of the products in the range, and the Chrono One is a perfect example of their talent.

The rectangular pushers thereby reinforce the prestigious haute horlogerie stature of this model, while the original execution of the applied counters adds a playful touch. The “tri-compax” chronograph configuration features an hour counter at 9 o’clock, minute counter at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 6 o’clock. Each of the counters takes the form of a circular dial opening and thus also serves to reveal another part of the movement. The date disc appears through each of the counters and is thus cleverly displayed at 6 o’clock on the small seconds subdial. Each of these openings is protected by a sapphire crystal dial with transferred graduations.

In terms of the movement, the choice of a vertical coupling-clutch confirms the current trend towards this type of mechanism. The problems inherent in this kind of construction, including friction, appear to be perfectly well mastered in all such recent developments, and it offers the tremendous advantage of reducing the space necessary by eliminating the angular errors of an intermediate wheel. A column wheel was also a must for such a noble movement, controlling all functions by operating an innovative large lever. The geometry of the latter enables tangential action of the brake-levers and hammers on the respective wheels. The resulting friction is thus kept to a minimum, the precision is enhanced and the time required for the pushpiece to affect the mechanism is greatly reduced. One should also note the zero-reset function on the small seconds display, a unique bidirectional winding system, a revolutionary overcoil on the balance spring, and the flyback system, all of which provide an idea of the degree of excellence embodied by this mechanical marvel.

The aesthetics and the finishing of this movement place it firmly among the ranks of the finest watch constructions. Everything is finely balanced and crafted in keeping with noble traditions executed to perfection, both in terms of its technical qualities, and of the aesthetic equilibrium characteristic of the way each part finds just the right place between the plates and bridges.

The evocative name of this new calibre, christened GT3, fits it like a glove. Contemplating it stirs the same emotions as the gleaming curves of a classic car in which each and every detail, however insignificant, has been treated with the greatest care and lavished with the craftsman’s inbred love of fine workmanship.

Endowed with such spectacular assets, the L.U.C Chrono One looks set to hold the pole position it deserves, while the Calibre GT3 may well end up on the starting line of the next edition of the… Mille Miglia.