We are accustomed to seeing Switzerland’s prestigious display windows mainly occupied by the production of a few world-renowned brands. It is hard to find a place in the sun for a new name starting off in the business.

Nonetheless, a few newcomers are shaking up these ingrained habits, such as Greubel Forsey which has recently been taken on board by Denis Asch and Les Ambassadeurs. “It’s really important for us to be present in Europe, and especially so in Switzerland – even though, as everyone is aware, the clientele is much more conservative than in Asia or the United States. It’s a question of recognition”, explains Robert Greubel. “We are nonetheless not prepared to accept just any terms. We need genuine partners endowed with the competence and skills required to sell complex and exceptional products and who are prepared to invest in the means to succeed. In this respect, Denis Asch was an obvious choice in that he has already ably demonstrated his worth.” The latter, who opened his Geneva boutique in 2001, immediately showed his ability to take daring risks by focusing on independent watchmakers who are members of the Académie Horlogère de Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), before integrating other youthful brands such as Hautlence, Richard Mille and Greubel Forsey. By implementing this policy, he has become an increasingly important player on the prestige watch scene and is currently proud of being able to offer some particularly rare models stemming from his own deliberate approach. “Amid the current profusion of models and brands, it is hard to distinguish marketing gimmicks from authentic horological achievements. Personally, I pinpoint the products that interest me and I don’t wait for people to come to me. It’s up to me to earn the trust of manufacturers who are looking for a sound ethical approach as well as a solid watchmaking culture, and then to address enthusiasts. I cannot just make do with existing or transitory clients; I consistently canvass potential customers, especially now I am starting to get hold of some exceptional models. It is an additional asset to be able to actually show them, while others seek to secure orders based on documentation alone. This spells heavy investments, but I think it is worthwhile.” It is more surprising to find Greubel Forsey, along with models from Urwerk and the Cabestan by Jean-François Ruchonnet and Vianney Halter, rubbing shoulders with the classic brands on show in Les Ambassadeurs boutiques. “We got the terms we were looking for”, Robert Greubel emphatically states. François-Xavier Mousin, Director of Communication for the exclusive boutique franchise, points out: “We feel the need to diversify our offer in order to meet the expectations of an informed international clientele. These models represent a valuable complement to our offer for people eager to diversify their collection. This is good news for unconditional watchmaking devotees who will find, in Switzerland doubtless more surely than elsewhere, a level of service respectful of all parties involved. We intend to attract new clients by a personalised approach, backed up by staff specifically trained according to our well-established principle that everyone specialises in a brand or a type of product. I might add that we are witnessing a watershed in watchmaking history and that we owe it to ourselves to support promising young brands just as we supported F.P. Journe seven years ago.”

Bruno Cremers, who was serving as managing director of the Geneva store at that time, comments: “It was love at first sight. F.P. Journe is a peerless watchmaker who, while adopting certain classic codes, is constantly contributing something new to watchmaking. It is still hard for anyone to vie with him and acquire comparable status.” The man who took over the L’Emeraude jeweller’s in Lausanne three years ago naturally continues to keep a sharp eye out for the latest developments, and his selection of brands ranges from the legendary Patek Phlippe to the virtually unknown Vogard. His credo is as follows: “the retailer must take a professional interest in everything and be capable of appraising the watchmaking quality of an new model. The inevitable element of risk involved must be calculated. Many young manufacturers will not last beyond the current wave of euphoria, due to a lack of credibility, identity or more prosaically of the financial means which must in any case be substantial.”

Nonetheless, it would appear that a new process is under way and that Swiss shop windows are opening up to brilliant and daring new names. In light of the examples that have been brought to our attention, western or French-speaking Switzerland is a pioneer in this respect, as under way by François-Xavier Mousin confirms, explaining that, Geneva is playing a spearhead role for Les Ambassadeurs. It takes one to three years for an innovative product established in Geneva to gain a foothold in Zurich.”