After Vacheron Constantin in 2005, and Omega last year, the world’s leading watch auctioneering is devoting a monobrand thematic sale to Rolex, the world’s leading watch brand. And yet according to Brandon Thomas, “it’s the little details that make all the difference”. As head of Antiquorum’s watch experts, he knows perhaps better than anyone what attracts collectors in a monobrand thematic sale such as this one for Rolex: the little differences that gives true value to the models up for auction. Among the 250 lots carefully selected by Antiquorum, sports watch enthusiasts will find a few rare gems that have been landmarks in Rolex’ constant quest in the field of sports and performance. Since the launch of the “Oyster”, which revolutionised the sports watch in 1927 while remaining in perfect working order after 15 hours on the wrist of Mercedes Gleitze during her cross-channel swim, Rolex has rolled out a steady stream of innovations – of which the Explorer, Turn-o-Graph, Submariner, Cosmograph, Milgauss and the Sea-Dweller are perhaps the most striking examples.

Antiquorum has selected only the rarest among these legendary models. Particularly those with unusual features such as the star item in the sale, a much sought-after prototype of the “Sea Dweller”, Ref. 1665, because it has no gas escape valve like the watches produced for this collection launched in 1967. Estimated at between 70,000 and 100,000 euros, this model will doubtless attract fierce bidding, as will the Rolex Comex “Submariner” Ref. 168,000, estimated at between 60,000 and 70,000 euros. This stainless steel diver’s wristwatch had been produced in 1988 in large numbers for the French submarine engineering company Comex. Estimated at between 55,000 and 70,000 euros, the Rolex “SBS” Submariner Ref. 5517 is also liable to create a stir. Made in 1972 for the British Special Boat Service and issued in 1978, this military diver’s wristwatch is particularly coveted by collectors according to Brandon Thomas, who also thinks that the GMT Ref. 1675 (15,000 – 20,000 euros) with its movement visible through a display back to fetch a good price in the auction. “Most watches of this type carrying the Rolex signature are in fact Chinese counterfeits”, explains Brandon Thomas.” This probably unique model may well have been made for a watchmaking school. Witness this signed by Rolex and addressed to its new owner: “In response to your request, the steel caseback has bee replaced by a crystal back that will enable you to observe the movement.”

Finally, collectors may well succumb to the charms of the so-called James Bond Rolex Submariner, estimated at between 30,000 and 40,000 euros, unless they were to prefer a Rolex display shaped like a goldfish bowl and estimated between 3,500 and 6,000 euros – which particularly appeals to Brandon Thomas: “Demonstrating a watch’s water resistance with a goldfish swimming around it is both very entertaining and extremely rare!”