There’s no doubt about the watch tested for this edition — it’s in the major league. The Chronomètre Souverain by François-Paul Journe is certainly among the great classics of Geneva watchmaking. It doesn’t look like a gasworks and there’s no flashy yet useless complication to distract attention from any deficiency.

Exterior
I have had the frequent opportunity to test watches for this column with cases that were impressively complex, sporty or technical and more or less justifiable. As in many fields, making it simple often requires greater talent and skills. The case of the Chronomètre Souverain is a perfect example. Everything has been nicely calculated; the dimensions of the movement allow a case of perfect proportions. Its 40mm diameter seems paltry compared to today’s standard sizes. But being fairly thin it gives the impression of a 42 or 43mm case, yet it can be worn on the slenderest of wrists. Seen from the side, the lugs seem to be a fluid continuation of the caseband, which is by far the best way to judge such matters. The dial is stepped on three levels with a finely engine-turned centre. There again, the perfect balance is consistent with a soothing sobriety. The blued-steel hands are impeccably finished. Worth mentioning is the henceforth traditional form of the hours and minutes hands which fuse harmoniously to give the illusion of constituting a single hand whatever the angle they describe. The integration of the alligator strap, fitted with a conventional buckle, is perfect.

The Movement
Those who want a lesson in watchmaking need only look at the calibre 1304, which powers this Chronomètre Souverain. Faultfinding or negative criticism would just be jealousy or bad faith. As François-Paul Journe often says, there are no “sandwiches” among his watches. That means that all the complications are integrated in the movement. The additional module is therefore a banned notion among the watchmakers of the brand. Having his own manufacturing resources has enabled him to reach the peak of quality. The baseplate and bridges are thus machined out of 18-carat gold. The movement is manually wound, and twin barrels ensure an optimal energy yield with a 52-hour power reserve indicated at 3 o’clock. The decoration and finishing are an example of taste and refinement. As for the construction of the movement, it could be a reference source of inspiration beyond the watchmaking world. The very long seating of the balance- cock ensures the optimal stability of the regulating organ. Finally, judging from the mobile stud holder, the chamfering and the steelwork, there is no doubt that this is the finest expression of what should be Geneva quality.

The Tests
In this case, the words chronometer and sovereign are not idle claims. On the contrary, the ideal relationship between efficiency, rate and power reserve is achieved by the choice of two parallel barrels and a regulating organ vibrating 21,600 times an hour. Fully wound the watch remained closely in beat in the six positions. The lowest measured amplitude was more than 320° (without loss) and the rate was between minus two seconds a day and plus two seconds a day, or a maximum variation of four seconds. Measured in five positions, the rate variation was no more than three seconds. After running 48 hours, the lowest amplitude recorded was 277° and the maximum variation between rates was only six seconds. The indicated power reserve is 56 hours. There is a more than adequate margin, which enables the watch to function satisfactorily beyond this period, even though the recorded results would no longer be within chronometer standards, which would anyhow be impossible.

Finally it is easy to operate, and if you can resist admiring such splendour you could soon forget that you are wearing this light and elegant watch.

Conclusion
I was familiar with the worth of the products manufactured by F-P. Journe, but it soon became clear to me duringthese tests that the Chronomètre Souverain deserves its place among the top three conventional watches in the fine watchmaking sector. The watchmaking art, the intelligent design, the finesse, the balance and the good taste of the exterior reach the highest summits here.

The only factor that could cast a small shadow on the Chronomètre Souverain would be a high price, which, in view of the competition would be entirely justified, but that is not the case. The sales price seems really derisory considering what is on offer, which, we must admit, is virtually unprecedented.

What more can be said about the Chronomètre Souverain? In my view it is simply one of the most accurate watches in horological history. And I don’t mind saying so.