According to some specialists’ estimates, the brand celebrating its 175th anniversary in 2008 has doubled its production over the past four years. GMT took the opportunity of catching up with its CEO at the Miami launch of the new Reverso.
What do you think about the separate dates for the SIHH and Baselworld in 2009?
The problem for Jaeger-LeCoultre consists mainly in finding out when and where its trade show takes place, and the fact that there is another one is not our primary concern: it’s just another related circumstance. January actually turns out to be extremely beneficial and puts us back in step with the natural pace of our activity. It further enhances the quality-focused approach of the SIHH, since the fact that people come to Geneva will now be a question of choice rather than merely a systematic habit.
You are launching your new Reverso in Miami; how is the American market doing?
Given Jaeger-LeCoultre’s extremely high-end positioning on the American market, where the average price of a typical “shopping basket” is 50% higher than the world average, we have not yet seen a significant slowdown.
What is the link between polo and Diane Kruger, with whom you have chosen to associate?
The ties between the Reverso and polo are entirely natural, since the two have been intimately linked since the birth of the Reverso in 1931, and are now part of a longstanding tradition. The new Reverso models feature a distinctively modern appeal through their shapes and volumes, and the lines express two different approaches reflected in the dials. We have chosen to offer an extremely casual and sporting interpretation on the one hand; and a more glamorous, jewellery- oriented rendering on the other. That is where Diane Kruger comes in: she has agreed to be the Jaeger-LeCoultre muse and is ideally suited to wearing both kinds of styles in her daily life. As our ambassadress, she will naturally wear all the brand’s ladies’ products. In addition, we also have ambassadors specifically involved in the world of polo, such as Adolfo Cambiaso and Clare Mountbatten, since polo is distinguished by mixedgender teams.
You have been with Jaeger-LeCoultre for ten years: looking back, what do you think has been accomplished during that period?
I have played various roles during those ten years and have been CEO for just six, so it’s a little early to really sit down and take stock. What I can testify to is the ever-increasing pleasure we derive from presenting our products. Our sense of confidence and self-awareness contribute to forging the destiny of the brand and helping it grow, and I consider this to be a very tangible aspect of corporate life. The second thing that stands out is connoisseurs’ recognition of the intrinsic qualities of Jaeger-LeCoultre watches. We have for example received over 100 international awards in three years, starting with the Reverso grande complication à triptyque which has received 17 to date, and the Duomètre that has already bagged 10.
After 175 years and 1000 calibres, how are you planning to celebrate this anniversary?
The main aim is to mark this anniversary by particularly intense creative activity, as epitomised by the Reverso presented here in Miami, or the Master Control to be unveiled at the SIHH. I should also mention the re-edition of an iconic model, the Polaris, and a new interpretation of the Atmos. 80 years after the first Atmos, we have invited an outside designer to give us his personal perspective on this timeless model, and Marc Newson has responded by creating an extraordinary commemorative piece featuring a crystal cloche made by Baccarat. In terms of events, after the inauguration of our Heritage Gallery last autumn, we will be setting up local 175th anniversary operations. Around fifteen countries will be hosting “Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmaking weeks”. The Swiss one will take place in Zurich this fall.
What are the priorities between now and the 200th anniversary?
Among our main priorities, looking towards the year 2010, is the completion of our new Manufacture which will provide another 9,000 square metres. We will be able to create workshops there entirely dedicated to Grandes Complications. The steady maturing of our watchmaking work represents a major development focus, particularly over the past five years. These new premises will also enable us to train more watchmakers and new talents. We wish to reinforce our ability to be the most inventive player in the high-end watch market. Making Jaeger-LeCoultre the brand uniquely recognised for its fine watchmaking expertise is definitely our key mission. In commercial terms, the current growth climate will be reinforced by the opening of new Jaeger- LeCoultre boutiques, particularly on the emerging markets. We opened 10 last year and plan to inaugurate around the same number in 2008, subsequently maintaining a similar pace over the coming years.


