In order to grasp the significance of the new Bovet collection and of the object of this testing bench, a brief historical reminder is in order. The Bovet brothers created the eponymous brand in Fleurier in 1822. Their main market was China, to which they exported pocket-watches, sold in pairs in harmony with Chinese tradition: one watch for “him” and an identical or complementary one for “her”. The industrial revolution in the late 19th century and its accompanying concepts of productivity and rationalisation gave rise to the wristwatch, which provided a faster and more practical way of checking the time than the pocket-watch. The Bovet brothers played a pioneering role in this pivotal phase in watchmaking history by creating a simple and effective answer to this new demand. They welded attachments serving to secure a strap or bracelet to the pocketwatches made for women in sizes more suitable for wear. This marked the birth of the wristwatch and of the brand identity with the crown placed at 12 o’clock, the upper part of the wristband fixed to the bow and the lower part held by a central attachment welded to the case. This year, all models within the Fleurier collection have been treated to a case which is at first glance identical to the previous one, but now features the ingenious “convertible” system that simultaneously magnifies Bovet’s past and its future. The Tourbillon with Inverted Hand-fitting which is the object of this testing bench is of course equipped with this new case.

Exterior
Since space does not permit a detailed description of the watch exterior, we will focus on the specific characteristics of the model tested, and above all on the convertible system that allows the owner to have four watches in one. In a remake of the blockbuster film “Transformers”, the watch changes both face and purpose in two easy moves. By simultaneously pressing the two cabochons on the bow, one can release the upper section of the wristband. A mysterious bolt on the lower bezel services to swivel it around a hinge at 6 o’clock, thus releasing the lower section of the wristband. Three different options are now open: fitting the wristband the other way around enables one to wear the watch with its movement side visible. The calibre is hand-engraved and fitted with a second pair of hands (inverted hand-fitting). The wristband can also be stored away, the lower bezel closed up and the bow fitted with a chain (delivered with the watch) thus enabling it to be used as a pocket- watch (or a pendant watch in the case of the ladies’ watch). Finally, without the wristband, the lower bezel can be unfolded to serves as a base that transforms the watch into a magnificent table clock. The idea is simple and with hindsight is entirely in tune with the brand history. Developing a mechanism featuring longterm reliability and incorporating it within an existing case without modifying the appearance and the dimensions nonetheless appeared impossible. But that particular word is apparently not in Bovet’s vocabulary, since the entire Fleurier collection has now been equipped with this new case that is guaranteed to withstand 10,000 manipulations corresponding to 15 years of daily use. One should also note the magnificently crafted gold and enamel dial revealing the tourbillon carriage, the brand’s traditional “serpentine” hands and the clever choice of a pin buckle entirely suited to the operation of this watch. Finally, the upper pivot of the one-minute tourbillon carriage bears the seconds hand which appears at 3 o’clock, while the 7-day power reserve is displayed at 9 o’clock.

Movement
The Manufacture Dimier acquired three years ago by Bovet owner Pascal Raffy has done a phenomenal job in record time, in a period characterised by ever lessening competition from other tourbillon manufacturers. The calibre one equipping this model is a hand-wound movement with seriescoupled barrels and a 7-day power reserve. The pivoting carriage has been magnificently crafted and the tourbillon bridges are exquisitely slender. The overall lightness and transparency highlights the beautiful rotation of the regulating organ oscillating at 21,600 vph. The chamfering, the mirror polishing and the finely cut-out “lotus flower” motif on the upper carriage bridge reveal Bovet’s skill in combining artistry with technical demands. The mainplate and bridges are hand-engraved by one of the in-house engravers and thus adorned with a stunning “Fleurisanne” motif. A circular opening reveals the gear of the inverted motion-work and another across the barrel bridge shows a skeleton-worked ratchet. All screws as well as the second pair of hands are in blued steel.

Tests
The measurements performed showed that the improvements to the tourbillon carriage are not only visual. Making it lighter and improving its poising apparently provides more constancy in the amplitudes and rating in vertical positions. When fully found, the amplitudes were measured at 320° horizontally and 308° vertically. This minimal difference highlights the quality of the burnish on the pivots. The equally small variations in rate were measured at 0 seconds/day in horizontal position and + 4 seconds/ day in a vertical position.

After 24 hours, the watch had gained 1° to 2° in horizontal and vertical positions, while the delta of rates was one second more (+ 5 seconds/ day in the vertical position). While it is hardly surprising to observe such a small difference after 24 hours on a movement with a 7-day power reserve, one might have expected a greater changer after 72 hours. After three days in operation, the amplitudes were indeed down by 10° and 18°, but the delta of the rates was still very narrow (+1 and + 4 seconds/ day). With very little time at our disposal, we were unfortunately not able to perform a measurement after 7 days, but knowing this movement, one can safely say that it has a sufficient degree of autonomy to maintain a satisfactory rate beyond that time-frame.

The 44 mm diameter of the 750 white gold proved very pleasant to wear. The crown at 12 o’clock was not a problem as is sometimes the case with large watches, and the dedicated wristband attachments enable the watch to make a comfortable and and elegant fit on all wrist sizes. The convertible system is reliable, remarkably secure and user-friendly.

Conclusion
The author of this analysis would have liked to have more space in which to provide a complete inventory of the specific characteristic and the countless treasures featured in this tourbillon with inverted hand-fitting. There is no need for such a model to have a flurry of complications in order to demonstrate its horological credibility. All the essentials are there: aesthetic appeal (the lines, the decorative touches), precision, comfort and... history.

Issued in limited series of 10 in white gold or in rose gold, the Tourbillon with Inverted Hand- Fitting may on request be fitted with a second dial adorned with a miniature painting on the movement side. By way of conclusion, the watchmaker who penned these lines cannot resist sharing his personal opinion that simply performing the various transformations this case makes possible, while requiring no particular skill or tools, already feels like watchmaking.