You took up your current post in January 2010; what unexpected things did you find when discovering Harry Winston from inside ?
Right from my first days in office, I visited all the American ateliers and salons before coming to explore the Manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates, as part of a deliberate wish to see the other side of the mirror. As it so happens, I have always been fascinated by Harry Winston, because I see this brand as the ultimate expression of exclusivity, reflected in particular through unique creations in the field of jewellery and in that of watchmaking – of which I have witnessed the rise with great admiration, and my visits to the salons showed me a degree of passion and expertise among the people working for the brand that far exceeded my expectations. For example, in the New York High Jewellery atelier, absolutely everything is done by hand, in some cases by people who have been working there for 35 years in accordance with perpetually high standards of quality. Not did this tour confirm that this brand is firmly built on such excellent craftsmanship, but my discussions with customers also gave a distinct sense of an all-pervasive magic. I had already met a lot of people in the luxury world who were passionately dedicated, but rarely to such an amazing extent. And finally, the degree of expertise acquired within such a short space of time by the Geneva-based teams have also impressed me, as have their clear-cut sense of organisation and their ambitions for Harry Winston.
What priorities have you established for this year ?
My very first priority lies in listening to all the players within the brand; I don’t intend to present my 10-year vision right from the word go. I have also been back to the Smithsonian, the world’s oldest museum along with the Louvre, in which Harry Winston is the only brand to have its own dedicated room. That is the place where one can admire legends such as the fascinating Hope Diamond, which Harry Winston gifted the institution half a century ago. I wanted to draw inspiration from the power of this extraordinary 45-carat diamond presented to humankind as a whole, before beginning my round-the-world tour. I want to visit our 19 salons and most of our 180 points of sale, to talk with their managers as well as their staff and their final customers. I believe that a huge proportion of the brand heritage is buried in the hearts of the people already involved. That is where we will get the energy we need to guide us in developing a longterm strategy. We will then be able to capitalise on the strengths of Harry Winston, and continue to target uncompromising excellence.
Which experiences from your Cartier years spent in Japan, Italy, Switzerland and the USA, you feel will prove most useful to you in heading a firm such as Harry Winston ?
To cut a long story short, it’s contact with customers that has shaped my experience. Right after completing my studies, I began selling jewellery in a boutique in Japan, and for almost 20 years, I have learnt most of all from spending time with customers. All these markets are complementary, from a somewhat uniform Japanese market distinguished by mass consumption and cutting-edge service; to Switzerland and its cosmopolitan clientele with a distinct taste for unique models; and the particularly demanding Italian market characterised by a subtle blend of refinement and expertise. That’s where I have met the greatest collectors. Within the United States, you find all these typologies within a single territory, albeit with a complexity of communicating from one coast to the other. Since Harry Winston is a global brand, an in-depth knowledge of all these customer cultures can only be beneficial in fostering its ongoing advancement.
Opus 9 won the Design Prize in the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix awards; are you planning to present Opus 10 in 2010 ?
The Opus models arouse incredible expectations around the world, and we simply cannot disappoint such trust, so there will definitely be an Opus 10. This unifying concept created by Harry Winston will once again work its magic. Even though it verges on a patronage operation, it has become part of the brand DNA: the presentation of a watchmaker discovering a precious horological treasure is a love story told with inestimable talent. So expect to be surprised once again !
What does it feel like to suddenly take charge of an ultra-modern production facility such as that of Harry Winston in Plan-les-Ouates ?
I’m tempted to say it feels like “the sky’s the limit”! Such a wealth of expertise and prestige under one roof is truly inspirational, especially since people here prefer not to set any limits. Its a poweful alchemist’s blend of skills that is truly incredible for an American brand.
In terms of marketing, are you planning to draw on your knowledge of the American star system ?
Given that the red carpet concept was actually instated by Harry Winston in 1943 with Jennifer Jones – the first star to whom we entrusted our jewellery to be worn on the red carpet, it would be a shame not to make the most of this historical status. A unique individual naturally wishes to wear unique jewellery, and Harry Winston is there to satisfy those desires. I am personally fortunate enough to have a network of sincere friendships among celebrities in the USA.
Even if it’s a little early to have grasped all the ins and outs of the company, how do you think you will be able to reconcile the demands of a brand with a jewellery heart in New York and a watchmaking brain in Geneva ?
This balancing act of the type that is dear to Harry Winston is extremely difficult. But it’s vital to work with the best. In watchmaking, that means the artisans of Switzerland, since nobody else has this time-honoured expertise; and in terms of gemstones, the finest experts are in New York. It is both a source of humility and of strength in recognising one’s limitations, including that of not being able to everything in one place. My work consists in serving as a bridge and in endowing the brand with a global and homogeneous vision. I am based in New York, but I pay regular visits to Geneva.
