Depending on how you look at it, time is ephemeral. Take the annual calendar. This complication was invented just 14 years ago which, leaving aside various enhancements or diversions of certain mechanisms, makes it the newest complication on the watchmaking scene. You can safely bet that a number of watchmaking enthusiasts can remember as if it were yesterday the sensation caused by the 1996 launch of Patek Philippe's Reference 5035 watch. Coming back to the present, the list of brands offering this type of calendar in their catalogue and the phenomenal success enjoyed by this intelligent alternative to the perpetual calendar can easily create the feeling that it has always existed.
Above and beyond these philosophical issues, the movement design engineers and watchmakers of the Genevabased manufacturer have displayed a truly pragmatic attitude and worked extremely hard to develop and introduce the annual calendar of which the latest interpretation, Reference 5205, has been entrusted to us for our traditional battery of tests.
Exterior
Over the past two decades, Patek Philippe and its two stellar CEOs have been remarkably successful in avoiding the risk of slavishly following the bewildering succession of trends we have witnessed in recent years, while also ensuring their creativity is not smothered in a thick layer of dust. This exercise is all the more difficult for a company occupying such a prime position as Patek Philippe. The exterior of this new model is a further stunning demonstration of this clever balancing act. The case features a 40 mm diameter which, amid increasing signs that king-sized models are running out of steam, is a decidedly avant-garde choice. The packshot photos released by Patek Philippe reveal the timeless classicism as well as the brand's signature elegance and refinement. Nonetheless, a more attentive look rapidly reveals the keys to the success of this aesthetic equilibrium. The concave bezel has already proved its worth and creates a perfect impression of overall volume. But the real revolution (albeit a gentle one) featured in this case is perceived when viewing the case from the side, which features a milled motif along the caseband that continues through to the openworked lugs. It is impossible to imagine the technical feats required to achieve such delicate machining without having the model in hand. Despite this, like many brilliant acts, it looks eminently simple. The dial is distinguished by the same approach. Three slightly different levels, two shades or rhodium and silvered grey, exquisite silk-screen printing and mirror-polished applied gold hour-markers as well as a date window at 12 o'clock. The calendar indications are read off over the arc of a circle in the logical day, date and month order. The play on the different heights of the three discs is so carefully mastered that the three indications seem to appear on the same level. An ever useful 24-hour indicator is displayed concentrically with the moon disc at 6 o’clock.
Movement
The self-winding base calibre 324 is enriched in this case with the S QA LU 24H code, which we will leave you the task of working out for yourselves without even providing any clues. I would be tempted to say that all the ingredients required to ensure optimal aesthetic appeal and performances are present in a completely simple manner. All the bridges are on the same level. The central oscillating weight slightly dominates the rest and moves in one direction only. The reduction of the self-winding gear train is optimal, and a single barrel is enough to ensure an over 42-hour power reserve. In terms of finishing, Geneva quality interpreted in the Patek Philippe manner represents the ultimate benchmark. The chamfering, the steel parts, the jewelling and the decoration are all impeccable and speak for themselves, almost making the precious Seal with the two Ps appear superfluous. The mechanism also illustrates how much Patek Philippe deserves its noble rank. Its extreme slenderness affects neither its reliability nor its quality of performance. And the last impressive detail we cannot fail to mention is the positioning of the four correctors on either side of the crown and symmetrically opposite each other in complete harmony with the new case profile.
Tests
Anyone expecting a surprise in this area will be disappointed. The performances of this new model are unmistakably those of a Patek Philippe, meaning unimpeachable and truly perfect despite the temptation to hunt down even the slightest flaw. A vain quest.
The self-winding mechanism is a watchmaking lesson in itself. I personally appreciated the choice of a unidirectional system which I believe ensures improved winding. The latter is perfectly reduced and operates in a smooth, regular manner. The importance of lubrication takes on its full meaning here. The same goes for the manual winding, which includes exemplary disengaging of the self-winding gear train.
The power reserve exceeded 42 hours on two separate measurements. The amplitudes in the various positions varied between 282° and 290° in maximum state of wind, and between 254 and 262° after 24 hours. All the rates fell within the narrow range of +1 to +7 seconds per day!
While the legendary perfection of Patek Philippe movements barely surprises us, the annual calendar mechanism in this new variation pushes the frontiers of what is humanly conceivable. Whether in normal operation or in fastcorrection model, each of the four discs jumps instantly in a clear-cut and ethereally smooth manner. The jumper-springs are so well adjusted that the increase in amplitude upon passing from one month to the next was measured at less than 5°.
Conclusion
While this paragraph might seem pointless in light of what has been said earlier, the author could not conclude this article without mentioning a tiny personal and thus inevitably subjective quibble: is the all-lacquered seconds hand entirely in keeping with the Patek spirit ? Apologies to the designers of this horological marvel, but at least we thereby avoid any risk of being suspected of uncritical indulgence !
