A pioneer among "extreme" movement makers, Christophe Claret set up his company in Le Locle 20 years ago. Over the past two decades he has accomplished a number of technical feats in order to supply the mechanisms of the star models for many different brands, most of which can also legitimately lay claim to their own horological expertise. His ability to innovative in particularly demanding complications and above all to actually deliver them may be viewed in some ways as responsible for the phenomenal and occasionally disparaged boom enjoyed by the tourbillon over this same period. Who would dare to criticise him for that ? Especially since, in addition to his movement-making contribution to the watch industry, he also provides the latter with qualified artisans capable of dealing with grand complications requiring a good deal of experience such as watchmaking schools cannot hope to offer their students in training.

To celebrate the 20 years of his Manufacture last year, Christophe Claret presented the first watch under his own name, the DualTow. Driven by an original and exclusive movement, this series of 60 unique watches (shown here in the NightEagle version) feature numerous innovations. One is of course hardly surprised to find a one-minute pivoted tourbillon oscillating at 21,600 vibrations per hour and driven on this occasion by two barrels. What is more surprising is the actual shape of the movement combined with the type of display, and above all the amazing perfectly integrated single-pusher chronograph.

The vertical lateral sides of this rectangular whole are occupied by belt-type displays respectively indicating the hours and minutes and each sliding beneath a fixed aperture serving as a marker. The central part is occupied from the bottom up by the tourbillon, the chronograph wheel bearing the central seconds hand, and then on the same central line by a magnificent column wheel with adjacent 12-hour and 60-minute counters (60 minutes at last instead of 30!). Even more impressive than the tourbillon, the brakes and hammers transmitting orders from the column wheel to the three moving parts create an entrancing visual display. Perfectly integrated within the overall movement, this planetary chronograph also indicates all the changes of function (start, stop and rest) by a gong-striking mechanism with a crystal-clear tone. And to conclude all too rapidly on the technical side, one also notes an original visual indication of the chronograph functions in the shape of a hand carried by the column wheel, and an extremely useful dynamometric crown that will disengage before even the roughest user might manage to break one or other of the mainsprings.

The exterior of this incredible timepiece is equally stunning. The case is not too large and its mobile lugs ensure an extremely comfortable fit on all wrist sizes. The crown and pusher are partially rubber-moulded in a colour matching that of the belt displays. And finally, I almost forgot to add that when ordering one of these watches, you get to choose the material and the colour of the case, the galvanic treatment of the movement, the set of colours for the belt displays and the rubber-moulded crown and pusher, as well as the material and colour of the strap.

And by way of conclusion on this gorgeous Christophe Claret model, I might add that the transition from making movements for other brands to launching a watch under its own name and clothing it in such a beautiful exterior is not as easy as one might think. The company has met this challenge to perfection, which is in itself a pretty major accomplishment!