This column, called Vintage, is the first in a series of regular semi-annual events, brought to you by Antiquorum and the Great Magazine of Timepieces*: each Vox magazine will feature our selection of new and innovative watches, inspired by clearly identifiable vintage watches.
Some lovers of fine wines make it a point of honor to acquire all the vintage years of a grand cru they like. We decided to offer you a sort of “vertical tasting” – but for watches rather than wines – that will examine all the versions of a watch model, as it has changed over the years and over the course of its evolution.
Among the brands that played the “vintage” card in 2007, we have chosen three whose new watches were recently launched on the market: Girard-Perregaux, Piaget and Vacheron Constantin. You will note, first, that despite the touch of classicism inherent in the vintage principle, many of the shapes - square, rectangular and round - have been updated. There are watches for all tastes and all budgets. Secondly, the modernization of these models means they feature the latest generation of movements produced by their brand, which generally means better performance. And lastly, these timekeepers, aside from their intrinsic value, often are intended as an homage to a venerable prize-winning “ancestor”, which increases their value as collector’s items.
Piaget, extra-flat version XXL.
Historically a master of the extraflat, last year the Piaget manufactory in Plan-les-Ouates reasserted its know-how in the field with a whole series of innovative watches, including an extra-large version of its 1963 Protocole. A half century ago, Piaget conceived, developed, and produced extra-flat mechanisms that even today remain references in the field: the manually-wound 9P caliber presented in 1957, and in 1960 the self-winding 12P movement – 2.3 mm thick – which would win Piaget a place in the “Guinness Book of Records” as the creator of the “thinnest self-winding movement in the world”. More recently, Piaget developed modern movements such as the 430P, 450P and 438P, which were only 2.1 mm thick, as well as a new family of 600P movements (tourbillon regulator). Placing technology at the service of creativity, Piaget has never ceased exploring the new opportunities offered by the slimness of its movements, in haute jewelry as well as in haute horology. Piaget has acquired such a reputation that today this specialty is indivisible from the brand, which in 2003 won the Geneva Grand Prix d’Horlogerie for an extra-flat watch, with its Altiplano XL.
In 1963, the first Protocole was equipped with the caliber 9P. It was later offered in several models, including a quartz version about which it is not necessary to comment. The latest Protocole XXL model bears the new generation of caliber 830P, whose 2.5mm of thickness may be admired through the sapphire back. Conceived, developed, and produced by the Piaget Manufacture de haute horlogerie, caliber 830P is fitted with a large balance with screws, and a large barrel ensuring a power reserve of 65 hours. Like the company’s other movements, the caliber 830P is finished according to the brand’s strict standards. The Piaget signature includes the circular côtes de Genève decoration, the use of blued screws and the inscription “Manufacture Piaget” followed by the caliber number. Its white gold case (also available with gems and in pink gold), generous in size (42 x 46.5 mm), plays on the subtle alternation between polished and satin-brushed surfaces, down to the smallest details such as the slender flange with its polished sides. The silver dial is rimmed with a sunburst guilloche motif. The cambered sapphire crystal perfectly follows the upper curve of the case.
Vacheron Constantin, the Best of Both Worlds.
Let’s now linger over the rarest and oldest watch, the Vacheron Constantin Chronomètre Royal 1907. This robust and flamboyant centenary sets itself apart in several ways, especially by some of the characteristics that made it different when it was launched back in 1907. To start with, there’s its name - Chronomètre Royal - that Vacheron Constantin registered as a brand name. Secondly, it was sold by subscription, mostly to Latin America. The elite of those far-off countries, impressed by the robustness and accuracy of this pocket watch, had to become members of a club, paying a monthly sum for approximately a year, before they could receive their long-desired chronometer. The early sales campaigns for the Chronomètre Royal were apparently orchestrated according to a well thought-out marketing scheme (a century ago!), since the posters for the watch mentioned a prize awarded to Vacheron Constantin at the 1906 Milan competition… for a completely different watch! Later on, the virtues of the Chronomètre Royal proved sufficient to build its reputation and success. Since then, it has appeared in the form of approximately twenty different models and calibers, always in very small series and occasionally as one-of-a-kind pieces. Some of these, which reflect the skill of the period’s artists who created the fine guilloche dials and enameled cases, may be admired at the Vacheron Constantin premises on the Quai de l’Ile in Geneva.
Among the most sought-after Chronomètre Royal models, one must mention the first wristwatch version, produced between 1953 and 1962, which bears the Geneva Quality Mark and is delivered with its Observatory Bulletin de marche. This yellow gold wristwatch with center seconds was indeed one of the rare models of its day to have a stop second feature.
This is in fact the only characteristic of the wristwatch that is found in the new version of the Chronomètre Royal, which otherwise was solely inspired by the first pocket watch version: Grand feu enamel dial bearing the words “Chronomètre Royal” on an 18 K white gold base, painted Arabic numerals with a burgundy red 12, outer minute track, yellow gold hands. Vacheron Constantin took the best of both worlds to create this limited series of 100 pieces, housing one of the firm’s new automatic movements (caliber 2460SCC) that received the double certification of the Geneva Quality Mark and the COSC.
Girard-Perregaux, the Choice of Forms.
With its rich heritage of design and innovation, Girard-Perregaux has mastered the art of vintage watches relatively recently. The firm seeks its inspiration both in the Art Deco influences so visible in the architecture of its home city, La Chaux-de-Fonds, and in past Girard-Perregaux collections. Two of 2007’s new models - one square and the other round - bear witness to this.
As early as the beginning of the 1990s, before vintage became fashionable, Girard-Perregaux had already designed a collection inspired by the retro lines of one of its 1945 Art Deco style watches. For over a decade, the Vintage 1945 has opened the way to a multitude of innovative models that update and modernize the unique personality of this rectangular watch. In 2007, the Vintage 1945 Carrée reinvented this heritage, with both movement and exterior benefiting from the manufacturer’s most recent discoveries. Remaining faithful to the original model’s aesthetic assets, the Vintage 1945 Carrée kept the case’s four right angles, but molded them into a square. This change gives the line one of its purest expressions. The Vintage 1945 Carrée is the first watch to be equipped with a GP4500 self-winding mechanical movement. This 190- piece caliber, visible through the transparent back, has reinforced winding efficiency. It is one of the latest creations of the Girard- Perregaux brand, which makes it a point of honor to constantly enrich its line of watches. Its 13 1/4’’’ diameter makes it a sure choice among largesized watches.
Completely different in style, round and curvy, Girard-Perregaux’s 1966 collection pays homage to the firm’s many innovations during the 1960s. At the time, the company already had its own research and development team. In 1957 it had developed the Gyromatic movement, which made it possible to produce extremely reliable small sized self-winding watches. In 1965, when the highest frequencies were no greater than 21,600 alternations per hour, Girard-Perregaux presented a mechanical movement oscillating at a frequency of 36,000 alternations per hour. In 1966, this extremely precise mechanism won the Neuchâtel Observatory’s Prix du Centenaire.
The new GP 1966 Calendrier Complet pays tribute to all these distinctions, blending the functions and style of a great watchmaking classic in a symmetrical interprétation updated to today’s tastes. Its round case houses a triple calendar. Two apertures at 12 give the day of the week and the month. The moon phases at 6 are encircled by the date indication. The sapphire back reveals the GP033M0 mechanical selfwinding movement designed by the company.
