{"id":18806,"date":"2016-08-08T17:38:46","date_gmt":"2016-08-08T15:38:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/?p=18806&lang=en"},"modified":"2016-10-26T14:14:08","modified_gmt":"2016-10-26T12:14:08","slug":"hermes-lemail-grand-feu-un-savoir-faire-exigeant","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/nouveaute-en-n-en\/xxl-2\/hermes-lemail-grand-feu-un-savoir-faire-exigeant.html","title":{"rendered":"Herm\u00e8s : Grand feu enameling, a demanding skill"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n

Slim d\u2019Herm\u00e8s Email grand feu<\/strong><\/p>\n

CASE<\/strong> : 750 5N rose gold,\u00a0glareproofed sapphire\u00a0crystal and back, waterresistant\u00a0to 30 meters<\/p>\n

DIAMETER<\/strong> : 39.5mm<\/p>\n

MOVEMENT<\/strong> : mechanical\u00a0self-winding,\u00a0Manufacture Herm\u00e8s\u00a0ultra-thin H1950\u00a0movement<\/p>\n

DIAL<\/strong> : white enamel,\u00a0Arabic numerals and\u00a0minutes circle in\u00a0transferred black enamel.\u00a04N gilt sandblasted\u00a0baton-type hands<\/p>\n

STRAP<\/strong> : matt Havana\u00a0alligator, pin buckle in\u00a0750 5N rose gold<\/p>\n

100-PIECE LIMITED,<\/strong>NUMBERED EDITION<\/strong><\/p>\n

STRAP<\/strong> : Havana<\/p>\n

Slim d\u2019Herm\u00e8s\u00a0Manufacture<\/strong><\/p>\n

CASE<\/strong> : 316L stainless steel\u00a0(750 5N rose gold for\u00a0the gemset versions),\u00a0glareproofed sapphire\u00a0crystal and back, waterresistant\u00a0to 30m<\/p>\n

DIAMETER<\/strong> : 39.5mm<\/p>\n

MOVEMENT<\/strong> : mechanical\u00a0self-winding,\u00a0Manufacture Herm\u00e8s\u00a0ultra-thin H1950\u00a0movement<\/p>\n

DIAL<\/strong> : opaline silver-toned\u00a0(or slate gray for the\u00a0men\u2019s versions), Arabic\u00a0numerals and minutes\u00a0circle in transferred black\u00a0enamel. Rhodiumed\u00a0sandblasted baton-type\u00a0hands (and\/or \u00a0old for the\u00a0gemset versions)<\/p>\n

STRAP<\/strong> : Havana, black,\u00a0indigo, sapphire blue,\u00a0elephant gray, geranium\u00a0or cassis matt alligator\u00a0strap, 5N 750 rose gold\u00a0bracelet<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Slim d\u2019Herm\u00e8s Email grand feu<\/strong><\/p>\n

In 2015, the Maison Herm\u00e8s launched two new models in its Slim\u00a0d\u2019Herm\u00e8s collection : the Slim d\u2019Herm\u00e8s Manufacture, equipped with the\u00a0ultra-thin H1950 movement, as well as the Slim d\u2019Herm\u00e8s Perpetual Calendar.\u00a0Both were available with a 39.5mm diameter, as well as in slimmer\u00a032mm and 25mm diameters intended for women. Herm\u00e8s is now\u00a0reinterpreting these models with the rare and demanding skill of Grand\u00a0Feu enameling (pictured on opposite page). Crafting it calls for a set of\u00a0delicate, meticulous operations. The first stage consists in placing on a\u00a0copper plate two tiny \u2018feet\u2019 that will subsequently serve to affix the dial\u00a0to the movement. Having placed the plate on a curved wooden supporting\u00a0base, the artisan rubs the surface to condense, rigidify and trim it down\u00a0to a final thickness of just 0.2mm. This process gives it the robustness\u00a0required to avoid any warping that would cause the glass enamel to crack.\u00a0The copper disk is then coated on both sides with an inflammable liquid.\u00a0Using a fine brush, the enameller then applies a thin regular dusting of\u00a0white enamel powder, before firing it in a kiln heated to 830\u00b0C, which is\u00a0why this technique is known as \u201cgrand feu\u201d (high heat). The liquid and\u00a0the enamel powder catch light immediately, leaving \"GMT_XXL_CH_2016_ipad-230\"the enamel power to\u00a0melt and adhere to the copper surfaces. The artisan repeats the same operations\u00a0of coating, dusting and firing five or six times until the enamel is perfectly smooth and shiny. The pristine white\u00a0enamel thus adorns the three dial levels : a first\u00a0circle bearing the hour-markers, another circle\u00a0in the center, and finally a tiny small seconds\u00a0subdial at 6 o\u2019clock.<\/p>\n

The technique used to transpose the hourmarkers\u00a0onto the white disk calls for the use of a\u00a0gelatine pad, which the artisan uses to transfer\u00a0black enamel paste onto the immaculate white\u00a0enamel.<\/p>\n

A new firing operation is required to\u00a0set the inscriptions into place on the dial. Then\u00a0comes the most delicate phase, during which\u00a0the artisan perfects the circumference of the\u00a0enameled disk, hand-filing the edges and thus\u00a0creating angles so that all the parts will fit\u00a0together smoothly, accurately and firmly.<\/p>\n

After eight hours of work, the three parts of\u00a0the dial are soft-soldered, according to their specific\u00a0nature, in order to form the Slim d\u2019Herm\u00e8s\u00a0\u00c9mail grand feu.<\/p>\n

\"hermes\"Slim d\u2019Herm\u00e8s Manufacture<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"GMT_XXL_CH_2016_ipad-233\"The new interpretations of the Slim d\u2019Herm\u00e8s Manufacture pay tribute\u00a0to the saddle- and harness-making expertise of the Maison Herm\u00e8s. In\u00a0addition to the quest for pure, restrained lines reflecting a graphic art\u00a0approach, these watch models feature a typography that is a first for the\u00a0Manufacture, a combination of understatement, classicism and light,\u00a0airy design (pictured on opposite page). The outline of the Arabic numerals\u00a0follows the natural function of a watch, thereby accentuating the legibility\u00a0of the time by dispensing with anything superfluous. The dial surface\u00a0is also composed of three parts, with a circle for the hours, another\u00a0circle in the center and then a tiny small seconds subdial at 6 o\u2019clock.<\/p>\n

A new feature of these models is that the ladies\u2019 versions of the Slim\u00a0d\u2019Herm\u00e8s Manufacture now come with vividly colorful alligator straps\u00a0\u2013 sapphire blue, elephant grey, geranium, cassis or black \u2013 adorning versions\u00a0including some set with 66 white diamonds. The men\u2019s models are\u00a0enhanced by a slate grey dial and fitted with a matching alligator strap, or\u00a0a night blue dial with an indigo strap. Crafted\u00a0in the Maison Herm\u00e8s leather workshops, these\u00a0straps with their captivating shades stem from\u00a0meticulous work guided by the Herm\u00e8s saddleand\u00a0harness-making expertise.<\/p>\n

Ulta-thin movement<\/strong><\/p>\n

Like the Slim d\u2019Herm\u00e8s \u00c9mail grand feu, the\u00a0Slim d\u2019Herm\u00e8s Manufacture is powered by an\u00a0ultra-thin Manufacture Herm\u00e8s H1950 movement.\u00a0At just 2.6mm thick, this caliber drives the\u00a0hours, minutes and seconds, as well as ensuring\u00a0a 42-hour power reserve for this precious\u00a0timepiece combining elegance with horological\u00a0precision. The finishes are all crafted in keeping\u00a0with the finest watchmaking traditions, as epitomized\u00a0by the hand-chamfered bridges. Like all\u00a0Herm\u00e8s in-house movements, the H1950 caliber\u00a0is adorned with a \u2018sprinkling of Hs\u2019\u201d motif.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u201cThe singular blend of contemporary and classic elegance embodied in Slim d\u2019Herm\u00e8s expresses the essence of Herm\u00e8s.\u201d, Philippe Delhotal<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":18735,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1663,48],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18806"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/9"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=18806"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18806\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":18809,"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18806\/revisions\/18809"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/18735"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=18806"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=18806"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=18806"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}