{"id":7542,"date":"2014-08-22T09:15:21","date_gmt":"2014-08-22T08:15:21","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/preprod.gmtmag.com\/?p=7542"},"modified":"2014-08-22T09:36:31","modified_gmt":"2014-08-22T08:36:31","slug":"christophe-claret-22","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/nouveaute-en-n-en\/xxl-2\/christophe-claret-22.html","title":{"rendered":"Christophe Claret : Two highly technical complications\u2026"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<div class=\"contenu_article\"><strong>Margot is Christophe Claret\u2019s first Ladies\u2019 watch complication.<\/strong>\u00a0It features a mechanism that helps to \u2018predict\u2019 one of nature\u2019s paramount questions\u2009: \u201cDoes he love me\u2009?\u201d A simple press of the pusher at 2 o\u2019clock brings the watch to life. With each press, a petal \u2013 sometimes a pair of petals \u2013 subtly disappears under the dial in a smooth action, perfectly depicting the delicate undressing of the flower. The eagerly-awaited answer appears at random in calligraphic letters (in French) on the dial at 4 o\u2019clock\u2009:\u00a0<em>Un peu<\/em>\u00a0(a little) \u2013\u00a0<em>beaucoup<\/em>\u00a0(a lot) \u2013<em>\u00a0passionn\u00e9ment<\/em>\u00a0(passionately) \u2013\u00a0<em>\u00e0 la folie<\/em>\u00a0(madly) \u2013\u00a0<em>pas du tout<\/em>\u00a0(not at all)? Pressing the reset pusher at 4 o\u2019clock makes all petals reappear around the pistil and turns the \u2018sentiment\u2019 display at 4 o\u2019clock to an ellipsis.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>With Maestoso, Christophe Claret masters the challenge of equipping a wristwatch with a traditional detent escapement, a mechanism usually designed to run in a stabilized position. Another world first for Christophe Claret\u2009! Enabling the mechanism to operate in all the positions that wearing a wristwatch entails is a feat, pulled off via three patents and additional innovative systems. To prevent the detent from turning over, an anti-pivot cam, integral to the spring balance, works in conjunction with the safety finger. The ensemble is fitted between a mainplate and two sapphire bridges, and pivots on a ball bearing that distributes the load on the escapement. It de facto absorbs the impacts by means of a spring that provides the requisite flexibility. To cope with the risks of over-banking, a flexible thrust bearing fitted on the wheel and connected to the balance absorbs any excess energy. The watch is also endowed with a constant force device, guaranteeing stable energy and amplitude throughout the power reserve. Thus the constant force spring, wound up by the barrel, always releases the same energy at regular intervals, making the torque to the escapement more constant. A stop seconds plays an essential role by stopping the balance when setting the time. Last but not least, Maestoso is equipped with two mainspring barrels, each with two superimposed springs.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Maestoso<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Cases\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0white gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium or 5N red gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium or 5N red gold\u00a0<strong>Diameter\u2009:\u00a0<\/strong>44 mm\u00a0<strong>Movement\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0mechanical hand-wound (caliber DTC07, 80+ hours power reserve), 301 components, detent escapement in grade 5 titanium, cylindrical balance-spring, anti-over-banking security device \u00a0<strong>Functions\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0hours, minutes, constant force device at 4 o\u2019clock \u00a0<strong>Hands\u2009:\u00a0<\/strong>red ruby and black PVD-treated or black ceramic and anthracite PVD-treated hands with Super-LumiNova\u00a0<strong>Water-resistance\u2009:\u00a0<\/strong>30m\u00a0<strong>Strap\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0black alligator and black stitching\u00a0<strong>Limited editions\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0each edition is limited to 20 pieces<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Margot\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Cases\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0white gold, baguette-set (68 diamonds in total, 5.2 carats) or 423 snow-set diamonds with\u00a0 hands in blued-steel with 3N yellow gold tips or red gold, baguette set (68 diamonds in total, 5.2 carats) or 423 snow-set diamonds with hands in steel with 4N pink gold tips\u00a0<strong>Diameter\u2009:\u00a0<\/strong>42.5 mm\u00a0<strong>Movement\u2009:\u00a0<\/strong>automatic-winding (caliber EMT17, 72 hours power reserve), 731 components\u00a0<strong>Functions\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0hours, minutes, \u201cHe loves me&#8230; he loves me not\u201d (\u201cEffeuiller la marguerite\u201d in French), symbolic \u2018colour-feeling\u2019 on the winding rotor \u00a0<strong>Dial\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0mother of pearl dial, excerpts from a poem by Victor Hugo\u00a0<strong>Water-resistance\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a030m\u00a0<strong>Strap\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0white alligator leather, white gold or 5N red gold prong buckkle set with pear-shaped diamond\u00a0<strong>Limited editions\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0each edition is limited to 20 pieces<\/p>\n<div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/br><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p><strong>Margot is Christophe Claret\u2019s first Ladies\u2019 watch complication.<\/strong>\u00a0It features a mechanism that helps to \u2018predict\u2019 one of nature\u2019s paramount questions\u2009: \u201cDoes he love me\u2009?\u201d A simple press of the pusher at 2 o\u2019clock brings the watch to life. With each press, a petal \u2013 sometimes a pair of petals \u2013 subtly disappears under the dial in a smooth action, perfectly depicting the delicate undressing of the flower. The eagerly-awaited answer appears at random in calligraphic letters (in French) on the dial at 4 o\u2019clock\u2009:\u00a0<em>Un peu<\/em>\u00a0(a little) \u2013\u00a0<em>beaucoup<\/em>\u00a0(a lot) \u2013<em>\u00a0passionn\u00e9ment<\/em>\u00a0(passionately) \u2013\u00a0<em>\u00e0 la folie<\/em>\u00a0(madly) \u2013\u00a0<em>pas du tout<\/em>\u00a0(not at all)? Pressing the reset pusher at 4 o\u2019clock makes all petals reappear around the pistil and turns the \u2018sentiment\u2019 display at 4 o\u2019clock to an ellipsis.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>With Maestoso, Christophe Claret masters the challenge of equipping a wristwatch with a traditional detent escapement, a mechanism usually designed to run in a stabilized position. Another world first for Christophe Claret\u2009! Enabling the mechanism to operate in all the positions that wearing a wristwatch entails is a feat, pulled off via three patents and additional innovative systems. To prevent the detent from turning over, an anti-pivot cam, integral to the spring balance, works in conjunction with the safety finger. The ensemble is fitted between a mainplate and two sapphire bridges, and pivots on a ball bearing that distributes the load on the escapement. It de facto absorbs the impacts by means of a spring that provides the requisite flexibility. To cope with the risks of over-banking, a flexible thrust bearing fitted on the wheel and connected to the balance absorbs any excess energy. The watch is also endowed with a constant force device, guaranteeing stable energy and amplitude throughout the power reserve. Thus the constant force spring, wound up by the barrel, always releases the same energy at regular intervals, making the torque to the escapement more constant. A stop seconds plays an essential role by stopping the balance when setting the time. Last but not least, Maestoso is equipped with two mainspring barrels, each with two superimposed springs.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Maestoso<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Cases\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0white gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium or 5N red gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium or 5N red gold\u00a0<strong>Diameter\u2009:\u00a0<\/strong>44 mm\u00a0<strong>Movement\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0mechanical hand-wound (caliber DTC07, 80+ hours power reserve), 301 components, detent escapement in grade 5 titanium, cylindrical balance-spring, anti-over-banking security device \u00a0<strong>Functions\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0hours, minutes, constant force device at 4 o\u2019clock \u00a0<strong>Hands\u2009:\u00a0<\/strong>red ruby and black PVD-treated or black ceramic and anthracite PVD-treated hands with Super-LumiNova\u00a0<strong>Water-resistance\u2009:\u00a0<\/strong>30m\u00a0<strong>Strap\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0black alligator and black stitching\u00a0<strong>Limited editions\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0each edition is limited to 20 pieces<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Margot\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Cases\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0white gold, baguette-set (68 diamonds in total, 5.2 carats) or 423 snow-set diamonds with\u00a0 hands in blued-steel with 3N yellow gold tips or red gold, baguette set (68 diamonds in total, 5.2 carats) or 423 snow-set diamonds with hands in steel with 4N pink gold tips\u00a0<strong>Diameter\u2009:\u00a0<\/strong>42.5 mm\u00a0<strong>Movement\u2009:\u00a0<\/strong>automatic-winding (caliber EMT17, 72 hours power reserve), 731 components\u00a0<strong>Functions\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0hours, minutes, \u201cHe loves me&#8230; he loves me not\u201d (\u201cEffeuiller la marguerite\u201d in French), symbolic \u2018colour-feeling\u2019 on the winding rotor \u00a0<strong>Dial\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0mother of pearl dial, excerpts from a poem by Victor Hugo\u00a0<strong>Water-resistance\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a030m\u00a0<strong>Strap\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0white alligator leather, white gold or 5N red gold prong buckkle set with pear-shaped diamond\u00a0<strong>Limited editions\u2009:<\/strong>\u00a0each edition is limited to 20 pieces<\/p>\n<div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":19,"featured_media":7539,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[48,629],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7542"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/19"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7542"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7542\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7562,"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7542\/revisions\/7562"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7539"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7542"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7542"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.gmtmag.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7542"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}