Jacob & Co. : Mindboggling complications

Jacob&Co. Opera

Case : black DLC-coated titanium, domed sapphire crystal, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 30m
Dimensions : 47 x 20mm
Movement : hand-wound, Caliber JCFM02, 120° movement rotation in 20 seconds, subsidiary hour and minute dial triple-axis gravitational tourbillon (first cage rotates in 40 seconds, second cage in 3 minutes, third cage in 8 minutes), musical melody by means of two rotating cylinders
Dial : pink gold
Bracelet : black alligator leather with pink gold folding buckle
Limited Edition : 18 pieces

Twin Turbo
Case : pink gold and carbon fiber, domed sapphire crystal, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 30m
Dimensiosn : 57.30 x 51 x 16.90mm
Movement : hand-wound, Caliber JCFM01, hours, minutes, decimal minute repeater on cathedral gongs, twin triple-axis tourbillon (first cage rotates in 40 seconds, second cage in 3 minutes, third cage in 8 minutes), double mechanical safety during chiming sequence
Dial : smoked sapphire, neoralithe flange
Bracelet : black alligator leather with pink gold folding buckle
Limited edition : 18 pieces

Jacob & Co. continues to revolutionize the world of jewelry and haute horology with creations that are as innovative as they are spectacular, constantly pushing the frontiers of horology in designing high-end timepieces. The meticulous attention to detail with which the brand approaches each model extends from its heartbeat to the magnificent gems adorning it.

Swiss music box heritage

Jacob & Co. once again demonstrates the ability to surprise by launching the new Opera Watch. It represents a world premiere combination of two traditional Swiss crafts : a mechanical music box boasting two cylinders and combs, and the exclusive Jacob & Co. JCFM02 triple-axis tourbillon caliber. In this new complication, the two cylinders and combs are mounted on the movement and rotate around the dial as they play their melody.

Making music boxes has been a traditional Swiss craft for hundreds of years. The Opera Watch combines this handcraft with high-end watchmaking. The watch plays an unheard of 120-note melody. Thanks to a sophisticated one-piece sapphire crystal, the mechanics of the Opera are put on display for all to see and allows the movement to deliver the purest sound. A pusher located at two o’clock activates the rotation of the entire movement and melody. The tourbillon is also all about rotation. Its inner cage spins once in 40 seconds, the intermediate cage in three minutes and the outer cage in eight minutes.

Finally, in order to display the time with 12 o’clock in a consistently upright position, both dial and hands turn counter-clockwise, while the movement takes the opposite direction. The 650-part hand-wound JCFM02 caliber was specifically developed for this complication, using titanium components for excellent sound propagation. The Jacob & Co. Opera Watch comes in two versions : a minimalist 18-piece limited edition with black and gold high-end finishing ; and a one-of-a-kind model featuring finely decorated cylinders depicting a romantic gala night with an orchestra and a couple dancing in the middle of the movement.

Extreme complication

Jacob&Co. Twin TurboJacob & Co’s Twin Turbo combines two triple-axis tourbillons and a decimal minute-repeater, making it one of the most sophisticated and uniquely complicated watches. Through a poising system, both tourbillons maintain a consistent rate set at 40 seconds, 3 minutes and 8 minutes per cycle, while turning symmetrically at a similar pace. With its deep-sounding and resonating chime, the minute repeater featuring a cathedral gong offers a modern approach to striking the hour. Instead of the traditional hour-quarter-minute sequence, it is a decimal repeater, with its minutes chiming on a ten-minute basis. A safety system is also in place to prevent it from striking while setting the time. The JCFM01 hand-wound caliber required two years of development, amounting to a total of over 3,300 hours.Jacob&Co. Twin Turbo

Representing a rarity for a Grande Complication timepiece, the two tourbillons and minute repeater are housed in a uniquely shaped watchcase, made of 63 components. Its sporty look combines titanium and carbon in its exterior, making it ultra lightweight. Inspired by an extraordinary automotive design, its flange is crafted in red neoralithe. A complex and curved smoked sapphire crystal opens onto its impressive ‘engine’ featuring two triple-axis tourbillons. The transparent case back reveals an abstract architecture of triangles in openwork metal. A symbol of stability, spirituality and determination, this motif dear to company founder Jacob Arabo is iconic within the house of Jacob & Co.

Jacob&Co. Astronomia SolarDancing with the stars

After two years of development, Jacob & Co. introduced at Baselworld 2017 the Astronomia Solar featuring the eight planets of our solar system : Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn, Uranus and Neptune. The 44.5mm case of this model houses Manufacture Caliber JCAM19, boasting three arms. The first holds the sapphire hours and minutes dial. It rotates counter-clockwise to ensure that 12 o’clock is always upright, thanks to a patented differential system. The second bears a twin-axis gravitational flying tourbillon. The third arm carries a hand-engraved earth rotating around its own axis in 60 seconds and around the dial in 10 minutes. The center of the movement is adorned with a 1.5ct Jacob cut® citrine.

The bi-directional movement rotates clockwise to complete a full 360° revolution in just ten minutes, while the aventurine base turns in the opposite direction at exactly the same speed, creating an accelerated, stylized view of the solar system. The idea behind the Jacob & Co. Astronomia collection has always been to highlight, in a playful and suitably gem-set environment, the place of the Earth in our solar system – which is, after all, the very foundation of our concept of time. In the Astronomia Solar, all eight planets in the solar system are for the first time given a place on the dial, with the sun at the center in the form of a 1.5ct citrine featuring the 288 facets of the unmistakable Jacob Cut®.Jacob&Co. Astronomia Solar

The reduced case size, new functions and faster rotation speed are all made possible by an entirely new in-house movement. The handwound Jacob & Co. Caliber JCAM19 beats at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), which is faster than any of the other Astronomia models. Yet despite its smaller diameter, it actually comprises 439 components, excluding the precious and semi-precious stones. Continuing the Astronomia tradition of an abstract depiction of the universe that combines highend Swiss watchmaking with Jacob & Co.’s talent for sourcing and cutting the finest gemstones, the new Astronomia Solar expands the horizon – both literally and figuratively.

A chronograph of epic proportions

Epic X ChronoLaunched at Baselworld 2013, the Epic X line from Jacob & Co. is synonymous with a sporty and active lifestyle. In 2017, it has been integrated into a new collection, the Epic X Chrono. This new timepiece features a 47mm case and asserts itself as one of the most sophisticated high-end chronograph watches. At the heart of the new Epic X Chrono models beats the Jacob & Co. JCAA05 skeletonized self-winding chronograph movement. This high-end chronograph caliber is equipped with a column-wheel to launch the chronograph functions. Its counters are arranged in the so-called “bi-compax” format. As a practical additional function, the Epic X Chrono bears a rotating inner bezel, which sets a countdown timer. The movement’s high-end finishing can be admired through a transparent sapphire crystal caseback.

The Epic X Chrono is available in four versions, distinguished by the use of high-tech materials. The two models made in 18K pink gold have a white ceramic bezel and a choice of red or black rotating inner ring and chronograph counters. A black DLC-coated titanium version displays the sporty credentials of this chronograph, which comes with a red interior bezel to match the red rubber pushers. The all-black model with DLC-coated titanium, black ceramic bezel and contrasting red counters and pushers exudes a motorsports look. In all versions, the open-worked movement is visible through the red mineral crystal. For a customizable look, the rubber straps are available in a selection of colors : white, red and black with a honeycomb pattern. A screw-down crown ensuring water resistance to 200 meters, together with the rubber elements, qualifies the Jacob & Co. Epic X line for sports usage.

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Brice Lechevalier is editor-in-chief of GMT and Skippers, which he co-founded in 2000 and 2001 respectively. He has also been CEO of WorldTempus since it joined the GMT Publishing stable, of which he is director and joint shareholder. In 2012 he created the Geneva Watch Tour, and he has been an advisor to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève since 2011. Also closely involved in sailing, he has published the magazine of the Société Nautique de Genève since 2003, and was one of the founders of the SUI Sailing Awards in 2009 and the Concours d’Elégance for motor boats at the Cannes Yachting Festival in 2015.

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