During this decade, the rise of the brand has been rooted in strong diversification accompanied by spectacular development of its distribution network. Today, Montblanc has 420 boutiques, of which 60 are in China, not to mention the 40 shop-in-shops in Asia, whose floor surface is sometimes as big as 200m2. In these points of sale, most of the turnover these days comes from products other than writing instruments, and most of the growth notably from watches. When I arrived at Montblanc in 2000, there were three of us working on watches, and now there are 150 people. It is not the same company at all! Initially, recognition of Montblanc’s watchmaking came from clients, and then retailers, and now from our peers and in a more institutional manner such as during the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix where our Worldtimer** won the Prix de la Petite Aiguille. The wheel has come full circle.
What surprised you when you arrived at Roger Dubuis?
Everything ! Which is undoubtedly to be expected during the first 100 days, after you have spent 11 years in the same company. In Hamburg, I was amongst the youngest, and here I am one of the oldest. What struck me was the fit between the modernity of the Roger Dubuis manufacturing facility, which makes an immediate impression, and the dynamism of its employees, who are relaxed but bursting with energy, a bit like on a campus. I often see Roger Dubuis as the Apple of Fine Watchmaking. Development lead times are very short and I frequently have to rein in their creativity. The marketing and styling teams work together with their movement counterpart and the two entities produce equal numbers of innovations.
How would you define the brand today?
Roger Dubuis’ positioning is markedly different from that which one generally finds in Fine Watchmaking. On the one hand, the brand embodies a marriage between top of the range watchmaking content and a very strong personality embodied by Excalibur, or like the Monégasque. Our products’ very strong style leaves its mark on everyone who comes into contact with it. Additionally, we are the only manufascturer whose entire production, for which we have developed 31 calibres, has earned the Hallmark of Geneva.
What is your main target market?
With an annual production of between 4000 and 5000 watches, sold for between CHF150 000 and CHF500 000, Roger Dubuis is one of the most exclusive brands. There are three distinct new types of client. Those in the new countries where Swiss watchmaking is developing exponentially and where we have enjoyed our greatest growth for the past five years (Brazil, China, Middle East, Russia). Those from countries with a strong watchmaking culture, notably thanks to the wealth of specialised media, and including many collectors (France, Japan, Switzerland for example). And finally, the last one is also the most recent in this price bracket, because it concerns women.
Will the product portfolio still develop considerably?
Two new families will be launched in 2012. George Kern has been working on this for 18 months with the aim of creating four product platforms associated with imaginary worlds, supported by the slogan “embrace an incredible world”. Thus, the Excalibur line, in communication terms, is interpreted through the world of the sword, benefiting from a rich literary and film-making heritage. The Monégasque is part of the world of gambling and this communication theme is supported by a product with complications linked to gambling. We have the advantage of owning our own creative studio, which also produces all our communication. In addition, our booth at the SIHH should make a huge impression on people, because we will display these four universes in spectacular fashion, notably the new Velvet line which carries the genes of a diva, and the new Pulsion range, which should symbolise the modern adventurer.
What is happening with the distribution network and the boutique mix?
They must naturally match the exclusivity of our products, sold in our 13 boutiques (all in Asia, except for those in Geneva and Moscow) and by 170 retailers. Roger Dubuis does not intend to extend this network much more. On the other hand, we should explain the added-value that the Hallmark of Geneva brings, its 12 criteria and why it implies 40% higher development lead times for our watches. Part of the role of our boutiques is to recreate this experience.
What highlights can we expect to see in 2012?
2012 will round off the brand revival. We are going to implement four product lines and their universes, open two big new boutiques in Dubai and Hong Kong, and present our Pyramid project in September, an innovative concept in the movement field. Finally, we need to develop our three-year plan, principally to promote Excalibur at the 2013 SIHH.
* Jean-Marc Pontroué was appointed as General Manager of Roger Dubuis in October 2011, and will become CEO in February 2012.
