Bulgari : Serpenti and the forbidden fruit

Serpenti Incantati Tourbillon Skeleton

CASE : white gold set with 227 briliant-cut diamonds (2.15cts) and 1 sapphire (approx. 0.15cts) or 18K pink gold set with 209 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.15cts) and 2 rubellites (1.9cts), water-resistant to 30m

DIAMETER : 41mm

MOVEMENT : mechanical hand-wound (Caliber BVL 208, 64-hour power reserve), made of gold, tourbillon, hand-crafted Haute Horlogerie finishing

FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes

DIAL : no dial, clear view of the gold movement with 18K pink gold oscillating weight segment with a red PVD coating ; or 18K white gold with a blue PVD coating

BRACELET : 18K pink or white gold with gold folding clasp set with 28 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.28cts)


Serpenti Tubogas

CASE : curved, 18K pink gold and steel or steel set with brilliant-cut diamonds ; 18K pink gold crown set with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite ; water-resistant to 30m

DIAMETER : 35mm

MOVEMENT : quartz with Bulgari personalization, adorned with Bulgari logo (B033)

FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : purple lacquered with sunburst guiloché decor

BRACELET : single-coil in steel or 18K pink gold and steel ; water-resistant to 30m


Serpenti Spiga

CASE : curved, black or white ceramic, 18K pink gold bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds ; 18K pink gold crown set with a black or white ceramic cabochon, water-resistant to 30m

DIAMETER : 35mm

MOVEMENT : quartz with Bulgari personalization, adorned with Bulgari logo (B033)

FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes

DIAL : black or white lacquered and polished

BRACELET : single-coil in black or white ceramic punctuated by two 18K pink gold elements

Few brands so harmoniously combine jewelry creativity with horological expertise, and none of them adds the aesthetic dimension of Italian design with such mastery and legitimacy as Bulgari. Among the star lines from the brand that has been repeatedly honored at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the Serpenti collection doubtless best symbolizes the fruit of this magical union between Haute Joaillerie and Haute Horlogerie. The jewelry roots of this collection date back to the iconic stylized snake-shaped bracelet coiled around the wrist of the world’s most famous women. The bracelet has become a watch, sometimes housed in the head of the sleek snake often set with precious stones. For the first time in 2016, the airy reptilian treasure embraces the case of a round watch with the emergence of the Serpenti Incantati Tourbillon Skeleton, interpreted in white gold winter colors on our cover page, and above in a more tropical shade of pink gold. The most imaginative minds will doubtless perceive an apple in this central shape, adorned with 209 diamonds : which other fruit when it comes to a snake ? As far as Guido Terreni, Managing Director of the Bulgari Watch division is concerned, he prefers to evoke the work of art represented by the “entirely skeleton-worked Manufacture tourbillon caliber, whose mainplate and bridges are crafted in pink or white gold, whose flanks are straight-grained and whose rims are all chamfered and systematically polished. These meticulous operations are complemented by surface finishing typical of Haute Horlogerie that yields a spectacular result.” In parallel with this particularly impressive version of this Serpenti model that lives up to its name Incantati (enchanting), four other less imposingly sized and adorned versions are available.

Unconditional fans of the more urban Serpenti will be reassured to know that the animal symbol is subtly reinvented in a black ceramic version, reflecting the glow of pink gold and the sparkling diamonds on the bezel of the Serpenti Spiga. With this articulated Tubogas-type ceramic bracelet, the bold style of the Rome-based Maison is once again matched by a technical feat, expressed with the brand’s usual elegance and comfort. A whole host of other versions are on offer for women who choose a watch from the Serpenti line. Guido Terreni evokes “an almost personalized range, meeting the varied desires of contemporary and active women. A choice guided by the wish to wear a precious watch epitomizing the Bulgari style, while being discreet, urban, modern and sometimes romantic.” Whoever said it was forbidden to treat oneself or others ?

Brice Lechevalier is editor-in-chief of GMT and Skippers, which he co-founded in 2000 and 2001 respectively. He has also been CEO of WorldTempus since it joined the GMT Publishing stable, of which he is director and joint shareholder. In 2012 he created the Geneva Watch Tour, and he has been an advisor to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève since 2011. Also closely involved in sailing, he has published the magazine of the Société Nautique de Genève since 2003, and was one of the founders of the SUI Sailing Awards in 2009 and the Concours d’Elégance for motor boats at the Cannes Yachting Festival in 2015.

Review overview
})(jQuery)