Cabestan : The chain of success…

Firmly in the avant-garde of the Haute Horlogerie brands born at the dawn of the third millennium, Cabestan is one of the independent stakeholders with powerful personalities that are making their mark on the history of modern watchmaking. Its DNA delivers an energy capitalizing on a design that is as original and exclusive as its technical content.

 

The origin of the Cabestan name lies in the mechanical chain and fusee concept that is at once complex and innovative. While the exclusive Cabestan creations contain elements of horological history, such as the use of maillechort to make almost all parts of the entirely in-house developed movement, the modern nature of the design evidenced in details such as the most generous spherical moon on the market leaves no doubt as to the contemporary position of the brand which uses the latest technologies. Not only are its timepieces and their components designed, produced, decorated, hand-assembled and controlled in-house by its watchmakers, but each model is also produced in ultra-limited, personalized series and many of them are one-off creations.

 

After a decade of innovation, powerful design and constant evolution, Cabestan has set its course firmly towards vertical integration as a full-fledged Manufacture, with a new crew at the helm that is putting new wind in the brand sails. CEO and owner of the brand in conjunction with the main executives of the Manufacture, Lionel Betoux has reinforced Cabestan’s production autonomy while retaining its lifeblood in the shape of key figures such as Eric Coudray – whose emblematic creations have long since been a magnet for collectors around the world. An entrepreneur with roots in the fields of art and artisanship, former basketball coach Lionel Betoux already proved his flair for business and taste for success in the course of his international career. His training as a mechanical engineers and his experience as design director enable him to grasp all aspects involved in the production of models with extremely high added value. The sheer emotional power exuded by Cabestan immediately appealed to him and he saw in the brand the very values he has always upheld : craftsmanship, culture, history, mechanics – all infused with the team spirit of a ‘human-sized’ company.

 

“Cabestan is an amazing and powerful brand, in which a captain was missing” he enthuses, while pointing out: “With the creations that have been introduced in the past, the amazing achievements yet to come and a professional, behavior-oriented service to our great customers, Cabestan is about to become an incredible and indispensable brand within the next few years”. How could one reasonably doubt the truth of this statement ? Winch Tourbillon Vertical, Trapezium, Luna Nero are all examples of watches epitomizing the new Haute Horlogerie, highly coveted by collectors, and promising yet more stunning new releases in the near future.

 

It began with the image of a capstan. A mechanical device comprised of a large drum on a vertical axis, hand-operated by a lever, the winch, causing a rope or chain to wrap around the drum. This action supplies the force to move other mechanisms. From this simple idea was born the Cabestan Winch Tourbillon Vertical. Capstans are used for winding the movement and setting the time. A miniature chain and fusee transmit the energy. A vertical tourbillon regulates the movement. Drums display the time. And a small winch handle concealed in the folding clasp activates the mechanisms – all perfectly and stunningly visible under twin sapphire crystals that provide spectacular 180° views of the movement. The result : a rare work of fine mechanical art, an exceptional timepiece demonstrating unparalleled elegance and harmony and housing one of the most precise mechanical movements in the world.

 

Watchmaking and geometry have always worked together. The cases of timepieces can be round, square or rectangular. Cabestan, defying the conventions in a line of its own, offers a geometric alternative: the trapeze. Whatever the viewing angle, the shape of a trapezoid is recognizable at first glance. The result is a complex combination of quadrilaterals giving the Trapezium an imposing, powerful and rugged appearance. The case is slightly asymmetrical. The design concept is simple and the hour-markers are offset to provide a simple and intuitive way of reading time by means of rotating drums. The flanks of the Trapezium are designed to provide an ideal angle from which to admire this distinctive motion, while the sapphire crystal caseback invites the viewer to observe the fascinating mechanism. Designed by one of the most prominent contemporary master-watchmakers, Eric Coudray, the movement of the Cabestan EC102 is recognized for its spectacular design and accuracy.

 

 

Cabestan Luna Nera stems from the imagination of Eric Coudray, the renowned master watchmaker and the genius behind the brand identity. He has achieved a superb feat by combining the typical technology of vertical capstan wheels, chain and fusee, with a splendid 3D moon phase. This additional complication embodying a wealth of knowledge and a mechanical exclusive creation highlights the brand’s impressive potential. The sapphire crystal, shaped like a giant screen and resembling a large window facing the sky, allows us to observe the mechanism of the watch and in particular the 3D moon, just as astronomers do from their observatories. The mechanism indicates the hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve by drums, one of the signature features of this collection. The hours adopt a semi-jumping mode for easier reading, while the moon phase is at the center of the movement, represented by a sphere measuring 7.40 mm in diameter. The torque is transmitted from the drum barrel to the fusee via a chain. This concept enables constant torque transmission throughout the power reserve, thus ensuring greater accuracy in the measurement of time.

 

Winch Tourbillon Vertical 

Case : brushed natural titanium (also available in black PVD titanium, 3N yellow gold, 5N pink gold, palladium white gold and platinum), with or without baguette-cut diamonds or emerald setting, 2 sapphire metallized crystals hand-fitted to each case, splash-resistant Size :L 46 mm x W 36/41 mm x H 16.5 mm Movement : mechanical hand-wound movement (Caliber EC 102, 72h power reserve), 910 components, Swiss lever escapement, tourbillon adjusted in 6 positions, Geneva stud, vertical system of wheels of gold or nickel-plated bronze, rhodium-plated baseplate, bridges and pinions,160 mm long steel chain composed of 235 hand-assembled links and 156 rivets, manual finishing of all components : beveling, polishing, drawing and circular finishing Functions : hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve displayed on three engraved rotary drums, time-setting and rewinding with a miniature dynamometric winch Strap : Alligator, calfskin, peccary, rubber, with deploy ant buckle Power reserve : 72 hours

 

Trapezium

Case : brushed natural titanium (also available in black PVD titanium, 3N yellow gold, 5N pink gold, palladium white gold and platinum), with or without baguette-cut diamonds or emerald setting, 2 sapphire metallized crystals hand-fitted to each case, composed of 7 elements welded in a controlled atmosphere, splash resistant  Size :L 48 mm x W 46 mm x H 17 mm Movement : mechanical hand-wound movement (Caliber CAB EC 102, 72h power reserve), 882 components, Swiss lever escapement, tourbillon adjusted in 6 positions, Geneva stud, vertical system of wheels of gold or nickel-plated bronze, rhodium-plated baseplate, bridges and pinions,160 mm long steel chain composed of 235 hand-assembled links and 156 rivets, manual finishing of all components : beveling, polishing, drawing and circular finishing Functions : hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve displayed on three engraved rotary drums, colored markings in Superluminova Strap : Alligator, veal, peccary, rubber, with deployant buckle Power reserve : 72 hours

 

Cabestan Luna Nera

Case : brushed and polished natural titanium (or 3N yellow gold, 5N pink gold, palladium white gold and platinum), 2 sapphire crystals hand-fitted to each case, 3 functional capstans (rewinding, time setting and 3D-moon setting) Size :L 46.5 mm x W 50.8 mm x H 19.1 mm Movement : mechanical hand-wound movement (Caliber CAB EC 102L, 72h power reserve), 939 components fully assembled and adjusted by hand, Swiss lever escapement, tourbillon adjusted in 6 positions, Geneva stud, vertical system of wheels in gold or nickel-plated bronze, rhodium-plated mainplate, bridges and pinions, 160 mm long steel chain composed of 235 links and 156 rivets, manual finishing of all components : beveling, polishing, drawing and circular finishing Functions : hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve displayed on 3 engraved rotary drums, colored markings in Super Luminova, 3D moon phase  (7,4mm diameter, correction with a stylus) Strap : alligator, calfskin, peccary, rubber, with deployant buckle Power reserve : 72 hours


Rédacteur en chef des magazines GMT et Skippers dont il est le cofondateur depuis 2000 et 2001, Brice Lechevalier est aussi à la tête de WorldTempus depuis son intégration dans la société GMT Publishing, qu’il dirige en tant que co-actionnaire. Il a par ailleurs créé le Geneva Watch Tour en 2012 et conseille le Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève depuis 2011. Côté nautisme, il édite aussi le magazine de la Société Nautique de Genève depuis 2003, tout en étant membre fondateur des SUI Sailing Awards (les prix officiels de la voile suisse) depuis 2009 et du Concours d’Elégance de bateaux à moteur du Cannes Yachting Festival depuis 2015.

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