The great freedom of “small” designers

Adler – all the difference

Why do Adler jewellery models exercise such amazing powers of attraction ? Is it due to their original lines and the flamboyant nature of the precious stones that adorn them ? Or more because they are the result of the history of a family who left Istanbul to move to Geneva to perpetuate their incredible skill here ? Doubtless for all these reasons at once. The story begins in Istanbul in 1886 with the first workshop established by Jacques Adler who had the presence of mind to combine Ottoman aesthetics with the jewellery technique he had acquired in Vienna. Based in Geneva since 1972, under the influence of the founder’s grandson, Franklin Adler, who today heads up the family firm, the jewellery company cultivates its inherent aesthetic sensitivity combined with unrelenting quality standards.  “It’s hard to set for a brand to set itself apart,” confides Franklin Adler. “It takes very high standards. When you decide to produce a piece of jewellery, you often need to do a hundred designs beforehand. We don’t want to be like anyone else because our strength lies in our difference.” And their secret in achieving this ?  “To remain open, sensitive to different cultures,” he continues “We allow ourselves to be influenced as much by Chinese culture as Venetian, by Turkish ceramics and by Indian embroidery.” The colours, the details, the balance and harmony of Fine Jewellery pieces speak for themselves. Jewellery made for princesses in Geneva and Rome that are only found today in Adler boutiques in Geneva, Gstaad, London and Hong Kong as well as at retailers in Asia and in the Middle East.



Benoit de Gorski –  Herculean creativity

Bursting with creative energy and a permanently bubbling bold personality, Benoit de Gorski is a key figure on Geneva’s jewellery scene who has been dressing women with his precious finery for more than 30 years. He has only himself to thank for this success, as well as his passion for aesthetics and his love of feminine sensitivity. “My clients are my stars,” he says. “I design for them every day. At the tip of my pencil lies the memory of my culture with, I believe, some form of Roman or Greek inspiration which is expressed through my jewellery.” His sparkling creations crafted with enormous finesse and skill reflect Benoit de Gorski’s intense fascination for the Greco-Roman art he collects and exhibits in his two Geneva boutiques as well as their Gstaad counterpart, in which he personally hosts his clients. Art and artistic crafts rub shoulder amazingly naturally, strongly accentuating the fact that these jewellery creations embody a wealth of history, as well as their distinctive character that makes them truly unique.


A l’Emeraude – timeless classicism 

“Our style? Elegant, refined, airy jewellery displaying perfectly harmonious shapes and beautifully balanced volume.” This is how Marina Cremers defines the jewellery creations named A l’Emeraude. Representing the 5th generation of a family of jewellers, the owner of the famous Lausanne watch and jewellery boutique creates jewellery decorated with precious stones selected with the greatest care in conjunction with the company’s diamond expert. Each item of jewellery is made in the best jewellery workshops in Geneva as well as an excellent workshop in Lausanne. “Above all, we seek beautiful stones and use them to design the item of jewellery. That’s what makes our creations unique,” continues Marina Cremers, whose training as a gemmologist is an undeniable asset. There is neither extravagance nor ostentation in these handmade creations, whose timeless classicism makes them suited to everyday wear.



Grégoire et Rives – Top of the range cruise 

It is hard to break into the jewellery market in a jewellery capital like Geneva. But such was the challenge that Sonia Fernandes, Grégoire Engelberts and Pascal Huguenin took on with young brand Rives Genève whose first collection was launched in 2011. Evocatively christened Croisière (cruise), this line that stemmed from quick sketch by Sonia and was produced thanks to Grégoire and Pascal’s talent, reinterprets the nautical theme in a delightfully light, airy manner. Sailor’s knots, ropes, floats and buoys are some of the motifs stylised with impressive finesse and a vintage spirit hovering between the Thirties and the Sixties. Gold, halyards and diamonds combine to compose the identity of these items of jewellery made in the Rives workshops, behind the Grégoire boutique. It is here, in the heart of Geneva’s old town, that the three partners present the Rives collections – along with Grégoire jewellery, tailormade creations, as well as models from Geneva jewellers and more recently from certain watch brands.


Adler, 18K white gold and carbon “Eclipse” pendant set with diamonds on an 18K white gold necklace.


A l’Emeraude, White gold pendant with one pear-shaped 2.01ct diamond, double surround with 0.52cts of diamonds, on a white gold chain mesh necklace.


de Gorski, earrings : 10 oval-cut rubies totalling 13.12cts and 253 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 2.73cts.


de Gorski, ring : 1 oval–cut 4.05 ct emerald and 194 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 1.47cts.


de Gorski, bague : 1 diamant poire fancy 3,92 ct et 124 diamants taille brillant 0,81 ct.


Rives, 18K white gold “Liaison dangereuse” ring set with 67 diamonds (approx. 0.6cts) and “Tendre liaison” 18K rose gold ring set with 11 diamonds (approx. 0.12cts).


A l’Emeraude, bague en or gris avec un saphir birman naturel de couleur rose 3,97 cts double entourage brillants et corps de bague serti 1,23 cts.


Rives, 18K white gold “Boucle” sleeper earrings set with 50 diamonds (approx. 0.2cts). Two 0.34ct brilliant-cut centre diamonds.


Rives, 18K (8 gr) white gold “Drisse” bracelet set with 14 diamonds (approx. 0.26cts). Woven bracelet composed of 16 continuous filaments in ultra-resistant polyester. Also available in black and white.


Rives, 18K white gold “Boucle” ring set with 51 diamonds (approx. 0.56cts) Brilliant-cut centre diamond available from 0.7cts.

Journaliste spécialisée en horlogerie, la plume de Marie présente les nouveautés tout en s'occupant de la rubrique Architecture.

Review overview