Cartier : The Calibre gets wet

Calibre Diver
Case : steel with ADLC-coated bezel Diameter : 42mm Movement : mechanical automatic (Calibre 1904MC, 48h power reserve), ceramic ball bearings, double barrel Functions : hours, minutes, seconds, date, immersion time Dial : black, partially snailed, Superluminova-enhanced hands and hour-markers Water resistance : 300m Strap : rubber, pin bucklke

Among the flurry of new models presented by Cartier at the SIHH 2014 across all (upper) levels of the watch and jewellery pyramid, one is very much off the beaten track, since the brand with its iconic panther motif had never yet ventured along this particular path. For its very first diver’s watch, Cartier has successfully combined the aesthetic codes of the Calibre collection with the stringent international norms governing the certification of this category of timepieces. From a stylistic standpoint, the result is certainly convincing, since the Diver becomes the most accomplished model of the youthful Calibre line, equipped with the Manufacture 1904MC movement – one of the 33 developed by Cartier since 2008. Technically speaking, in addition to meeting the ISO 6425 criteria for diver’s watches, the Calibre Diver boasts certain innovations drawn from the Concept Watch ID One, such as the ADLC coating on the unidirectional bezel, self-lubricated by this high-tech process applied atom by atom. This model also brings a pleasant auditory surprise in that the mechanical ‘tune’ of its 120 notches shifting when the bezel is rotated lends an extra playful touch to its use. Together with the sturdiness and readability that are inherently bound up with its vocation, the quality of the design of the first Cartier Diver watch might well deprive divers of their monopoly on acquiring this model.

Brice Lechevalier is editor-in-chief of GMT and Skippers, which he co-founded in 2000 and 2001 respectively. He has also been CEO of WorldTempus since it joined the GMT Publishing stable, of which he is director and joint shareholder. In 2012 he created the Geneva Watch Tour, and he has been an advisor to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève since 2011. Also closely involved in sailing, he has published the magazine of the Société Nautique de Genève since 2003, and was one of the founders of the SUI Sailing Awards in 2009 and the Concours d’Elégance for motor boats at the Cannes Yachting Festival in 2015.

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