Christophe Claret : A concentrated blend of innovations

Kantharos

Case : white gold and anthracite gray PVD titanium, sapphire back Diameter : 45 mm  Movement : mechanical self-winding (Caliber MBA13), constant-force mechanism, 558 parts, 21,600 vph, 48h power reserve, platinum oscillating weight, Fine Watchmaking finishes Functions : hours, minutes, chronograph, striking mechanism chiming on cathedral gong with each change of function (start, stop, reset) Dial : anthracite gray rhodiumed base, rhodiumed appliques, red ruby and black PVD hours and minutes hands, red chronograph hand Strap : black alligator leather, red overstitching Water resistance  : 30 m

Born from the imagination of the ever surprising Christophe Claret, the Kantharos watch is equipped with a striking mechanism unlike any other, invented for the Dualtow to mark the 20th anniversary of the Manufacture. It audibly chimes each time the chronograph pusher is activated in start, stop or reset modes. This double cathedral-type gong visible at 10 o’clock features a patented system that avoids the gongs knocking against each other. This chronograph also boasts a clutch disk system inspired by car gearboxes and which prevents the hand from jumping when the chronograph starts and thus to enhance precision. Nonetheless, the key feature of the Kantharos is an exclusive constant-force mechanism visible beneath a sapphire bridge at 6 o’clock on the dial side. Thanks to this system, the energy delivered by the escapement remains constant from beginning to end of the power reserve and the precision of the watch is thus duly optimized. The mechanical self-winding movement is also equipped with the first ever components made from M-15X. This material is used to produce laminated steel characterized by a homogenous microstructure and a very fine grain, thus serving to achieve a remarkably high-quality mirror-polished finish. The movement is based on a fully integrated and sophisticated construction with a platinum rotor ensuring enhanced inertia. This technically complex caliber is fitted with 75 jewels including a brilliant-cut one on the balance-cock. It is also particularly aesthetically refined with several interior angles and its finishes are performed in keeping with the noblest principles of Fine Watchmaking.

The Kantharos collection comes in five versions with cases in titanium, black PVD-coated titanium, red gold and gray PVD titanium or white gold and anthracite gray PVD titanium. The matching dials, built in layers, carry counters inspired by aircraft instrument panels, with an original display system based on  superimposed discs and applied rims. The numerals and hour-markers are relatively discreet so as to highlight the daring hands, particularly the dragging hours hand and the jumping minutes hand, of which the composition features precious materials, red ruby, blue spinel or black ceramics.

 


Brice Lechevalier is editor-in-chief of GMT and Skippers, which he co-founded in 2000 and 2001 respectively. He has also been CEO of WorldTempus since it joined the GMT Publishing stable, of which he is director and joint shareholder. In 2012 he created the Geneva Watch Tour, and he has been an advisor to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève since 2011. Also closely involved in sailing, he has published the magazine of the Société Nautique de Genève since 2003, and was one of the founders of the SUI Sailing Awards in 2009 and the Concours d’Elégance for motor boats at the Cannes Yachting Festival in 2015.

Review overview
})(jQuery)