de Grisogono : Horological innovations with a fiercely independent spirit

Since entering the exclusive circle of Haute Horlogerie 14 years ago, de GRISOGONO has asserted its style with a blend of strength and panache. An instantly identifiable touch and a signature so distinctive that it can be spotted among a thousand others. The founder of the House, Fawaz Gruosi, immediately chose to counter the round shape of traditional timepieces with a geometrical approach based on rectangles and squares. Consistently bucking conventions, following his keen intuition and remaining in touch with his own desires, he has adopted the same model for watchmaking as that which earned him success in the exclusive field of High Jewelry : a fiercely independent spirit combined with boundless creativity.


The watchmaking history of de GRISOGONO began in the year 2000 with the launch of the Instrumento n° UNO, a watch that revisits the tonneau shape while drawing inspiration from a TV screen. Presented at Baselworld, this model featuring dual-time and date functions met with unexpected success and immediately propelled de GRISOGONO to the forefront of the watchmaking scene. Not only did the watch represent a complete break with classical design codes, but it also surprised observers by its deliberate difference : for the very first time, a watch was equipped with a strap in galuchat (stingray) ; while the movement was blackened – a watch industry first. The horological epic of de GRISGONO had begun and was to be punctuated by a string of successes and innovations.


In 2005, the firm laid a significant milestone in its history with the launch of its first complication watch. With the Occhio Ripetizione Minuti, de GRISOGONO once again surprised people by its ability to move off the beaten track. It embodied a complete innovation. Inspired by the fraction-of-a-second opening of a reflex camera, this minute repeater reveals the intricate wheels and gears of its movement while the cathedral chime is sounding.



In 2008, on the occasion of its 15th anniversary, the brand caused another sensation with the Meccanico dG, a revolutionary timepiece that once again overturned long-entrenched watch industry conventions. It was indeed the first time that a watch combined digital and analog-type displays. To achieve this, the movement is a concentrated blend of micro-systems equipped with highly sophisticated cam and gear mechanisms – an innovation that earned it an award at the 2009 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix.


Alongside the horological innovations that have punctuated the history of the House, Fawaz Gruosi is a lover of beauty with an openly avowed penchant for feminine elegance who has consistently sought to develop ladies’ watches. The Instrumento Tondo is a an excellent example, with its perfect oval shape that also lends itself to an aesthetic ideally suited to innovation. Notably so in the field of materials, with the extremely glamorous Tondo by Night of which the ultra-colorful variations also light up at night-time thanks to  a new luminescent alloy. Not to mention the Tondo Tourbillon Gioiello, which features the supreme horological complication and perfectly mingles the brand’s twin fields of expertise : watchmaking in its most innovative form ; along with highly original aesthetic research and know-how in the domain of High Jewelry.



Well before shining on the watchmaking stage, Fawaz Gruosi earned his stripes in the field of High Jewelry, making the most of his unbridled creativity to unveil stunningly masterful creations. This heritage has naturally given rise to collections showcasing the de GRISOGONO jewelry universe. Precious stones quite naturally escort the passing of time, accompanied by color and movement. The Grappoli jewelry watch delicately expresses the power of de GRISGOGONO’s supreme mastery in this field. Interpreted in different versions with diamonds, amethysts, orange and blue sapphires or in its stunning cloak of emeralds, Grappoli features a superb composition of various gem cuts, framed by a row of gently moving briolette-cut diamonds.


Movement and color are also in the spotlight with the very latest version of the Allegra collection. The Allegra watch unites the brand’s jewelry and watchmaking skills while highlighting its cherished aesthetic codes – starting with the square, a shape far more typically associated with the de GRISOGONO approach to watchmaking than classic round designs. Then comes the firework display of precious stones. Diamonds, emeralds, pink or red spinels, yellow sapphires and tsavorites, orange and pink sapphires and amethysts invite jewelry extravagance to the watchmaking party. And finally, the multiple colorful multi-strand leather straps embracing the wrist like 1930s strap watches. A boldly proclaimed Hollywood touch for this watch entirely in tune with the current cuff-watch craze.


Instrumento n° UNO

Case : polished 18K pink gold Movement : mechanical self-winding Functions : hours, minutes, dual-time display, large date Dial : black lacquered Caseback : sapphire crystal Strap :  black alligator leather Water resistance : 30 m


Occhio Ripetizione Minuti

Case : polished 18K pink gold Movement : mechanical self-winding Functions : hours, minutes, minute repeater with cathedral chime for the hours, quarters and minutes Dial : matt black 12-shutter titanium diaphragm Strap : black alligator leather Water resistance : 30 m


Tondo Tourbillon Gioiello 

Case : white gold set with 529 white diamonds Movement : mechanical self-winding, tourbillon Functions : hours, minutes Dial : purple enamel Strap : purple galuchat Water resistance : 30 m


Tondo by Night

Case : luminescent turquoise blue glass fiber set with 48 amethysts Movement : mechanical self-winding, inverted module  Functions : hours, minutes  Dial : oscillating weight set with 60 amethysts  Strap : dark purple galuchat Water resistance : 30 m


Meccanico dG 

Case : titanium, rubber Movement : mechanical self-winding Functions : hours, minutes, dual-time display  Strap : natural black rubber Water resistance : 30 m



Case : 18K pink or white gold or PVD-coated steel, bezel set with diamonds, emeralds, spinels, sapphires or tsavorites, water resistant to 30 m Movement : quartz Functions : hours, minutes Dial : white lacquer or mother of pearl Strap : leather available in a variety of colors



Case : white gold set with 963 emeralds (9,2cts), water resistant to 30 m Movement : quartz Functions : hours, minutes Dial : 70 snow-set emeralds (52.25cts) Strap : galuchat

Rédacteur en chef des magazines GMT et Skippers dont il est le cofondateur depuis 2000 et 2001, Brice Lechevalier est aussi à la tête de WorldTempus depuis son intégration dans la société GMT Publishing, qu’il dirige en tant que co-actionnaire. Il a par ailleurs créé le Geneva Watch Tour en 2012 et conseille le Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève depuis 2011. Côté nautisme, il édite aussi le magazine de la Société Nautique de Genève depuis 2003, tout en étant membre fondateur des SUI Sailing Awards (les prix officiels de la voile suisse) depuis 2009 et du Concours d’Elégance de bateaux à moteur du Cannes Yachting Festival depuis 2015.

Review overview