Hegel in the Manufacture : (the return)

Architecture
Whether it appears intentionally on the design of a dial or makes reference to the construction of a movement, architecture is a notion that is common to watchmaking. Harry Winston is a great proponent of this approach with a number of models inspired by New York architecture. With the new Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour, the watchmaker introduces a timepiece that incorporates the first of the arts into the heart of its aesthetics. Inserted between two sapphire crystals and two openwork bridges, within a minimalist décor composed of pure geometrical lines, the tourbillon and the jumping hour are inspired by a certain vision of the Modernist movement.

 
Sculpture
While watchmaking regularly employs the art of sculpture, the pinnacle of this art is doubtless reached by Jaquet Droz with The Bird Repeater watch. Effectively upstaging the incessant ballet of the hour and minute hands, the show is provided by a couple of Blue Tits perched above a nest with their babies in it. At a push of the finger, one can hear the hours, quarter hours and minutes chime and set off the movement of the tiny automata. This three-dimensional tableau owes its success and realism to the work of the best engravers and painters in the company.

 

Painting
Delaneau reveals an incredible work of miniature painting combined with exceptional mastery of Grand Feu enamelling in its collection of unique Flower Fields pieces. Once again calling on the talent of the company enamellers, the Rondo Tulip Field required more than 100 hours of research and work on enamel to house a tiny impressionist painting within a white gold case set with 196 diamonds, and thus composing a veritable work of art on the wrist.

 

 

Music
When the art of watchmaking is at the service of the third art, the result can be somewhat disconcerting. The MusicMachine is definitely a musical UFO. Nothing less was expected of the collaboration between Reuge and MB&F. To perfect this musical space ship equipped with two propellers and silver cylinders mounted on landing skids shaped like outriggers, Maximilian Büsser drew his inspiration from Luke Skywalker and Captain Kirk. Both the cylinders play three tunes – ranging from Star Wars to Star Trek via the Empire Strikes Back and John Lennon’s Imagine. The result is a visual and technical feat that even the founder of MB&F could hardly believe : “Reuge is the Jedi Master of musical boxes !”.

 

Dance
This is not a first for Vacheron Constantin – but rather something of a continuation. Highly involved in the realm of art, and renowned for its promotion of artistic crafts, the Manufacture became the patron of the Opéra National de Paris in 2007 and to commemorate the occasion of the tri-centenary of the Ecole française de Danse, revealed a series of three unique pieces inspired by the work by Edgar Degas and his fascination with ballerinas. Here, Vacheron Constantin brings all its skill in the ancient art of Grand Feu “grisaille” enamelling to bear in order to create a beautifully choreographed depiction of the passing of time.

 

Poetry
The scene is as seductive as it is an open invitation to dream. In an inventive game that combines Cartier’s skills in the various realms of watchmaking, including setting and enamelling, the 40-piece limited edition Frog Watch deploys its charms with great poetry. In this garden hung with lotus flowers, strewn with moonstones, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds, a small frog is just longing to be kissed – unless it were to escape quietly. The lotus décor amid which it appears to be relaxing can be removed at will and transformed into a brooch.


Brice Lechevalier is editor-in-chief of GMT and Skippers, which he co-founded in 2000 and 2001 respectively. He has also been CEO of WorldTempus since it joined the GMT Publishing stable, of which he is director and joint shareholder. In 2012 he created the Geneva Watch Tour, and he has been an advisor to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève since 2011. Also closely involved in sailing, he has published the magazine of the Société Nautique de Genève since 2003, and was one of the founders of the SUI Sailing Awards in 2009 and the Concours d’Elégance for motor boats at the Cannes Yachting Festival in 2015.

Review overview
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