Another Geneva initiative launched at Baselworld 2013 is Spero Lucem which draws its DNA from Calvin’s city, whence comes the inspiration for its name in Geneva’s motto “post tenebras lux” sometimes declined as “post tenebras spero lucem”. The brand logo is directly inspired by the pastoral key on the official coat of arms, while the brand’s first pieces are called La Jonction and La Clémence – which are other symbols of the town. The product is positioned at the top of the watchmaking pyramid, all the more so because La Clémence is a world first : a minute repeater tourbillon with crazy hands (See Focus on page 68). Wealthy collectors on the lookout for exceptional models combining tradition and innovation are clearly the target audience. Behind the scenes, the founder and CEO of the brand are definitely not beginners. Yvan Arpa has already created two niche brands (Artya and Black Belt) and taken over the SC2 prototype Manufacture, whose well-known know-how he naturally uses for Spero Lucem. “You have to be sure that you have a strong, honest, decisive, different approach” asserts this entrepreneur who is crazy about marketing and watchmaking. For this new adventure, he partnered with a wealthy Chinese woman who is passionate about watches. Consequently, the distribution is based on boutiques in China and a few very select retailers across the world. Spero Lucem also offers jewellery and accessories which avail themselves of watchmaking mechanisms and whose range should be consolidated in 2014.
The secret of Elegance is the slogan for brand Champs Elysées whose official launch took place at Baselworld 2013. Based in Neuchâtel, this new kid on the red carpet of prestigious ladies’ watches plays the gold and precious stones card in its first three collections. With equivalent caratage and gold weight, the creators are positioning this range a good 25% cheaper than the big brands. In order to attract more clients, and retailers, Champs Elysées watches are accompanied by a number of little bonus products: several complimentary straps, a luxurious box whose key comes with a little pendant, etc… The points of sale are supported in their sales efforts by local advertising, such as magazines or posters. Having been watchmaking distribution professionals in the Middle East for about a decade, the two partners decided to take their future in hand three years ago by taking advantage of the rebound from the crisis and creating their own brand. Mr Azem directs Champs Elysées in Switzerland while Mr Keyvan Lamé continues to manage his distribution company from Dubai while developing his network in the region. The investors are not dependent on banks to move forward with their project – they intend to take their time about opening the right doors and selecting only the best points of sale, starting with the Middle East. In addition, the opinions of a number of these top-tier retailers have been incorporated into the definition of the product in order to obtain their trust upfront.
Drawing its name from an urban luxury legend, the brand 88 rue du Rhône aspires to making modern, elegant watches accessible to a greater number of people. Mostly quartz, the pieces are characterised by a design in which the number 88 is declined in every detail: hands, crown, dial guillochage, case engraving, number of diamonds on the bezel, etc. Paradoxically, number 88 rue du Rhône does not exist. On the other hand, the official launch at Baselworld took place on stand 88. Visitors had a chance to become acquainted with the 70 references belonging to the Double 8 Origin collection. Distribution started in summer 2012 in department stores in London and America, and is continuing in the Middle East by targeting the Far East, which is sensitive to the 88 symbol. The development strategy includes direct sales online, which are accompanied by communication on social networks and cinema sponsorships such as the British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA Awards). The co-founders became involved in the field from an early age as their family founded and owned the brand Raymond Weil. Brothers Elie and Pierre Bernheim inherited this entrepreneurial spirit and are targeting no less than the world.
Founded in 1826, the brand H. Moser & Cie changed hands last year after having lost a considerable amount of money. Already the owner of Hautlence and distributor for Celsius X VI II and De Bethune in the Far East, MELB Holding intends to get the manufacture back on track. Is a re-launch very different from a launch ? For its new CEO, Edouard Meylan (see Business News p. 32), “the image capital of H. Moser & Cie is not only interesting and intact, but the potential of a neo-classical brand like this is huge, and the advent of certain emerging markets increases this potential.”
Its DNA and current team roles must certainly be redefined, in parallel to developing new products and marketing tools, and above all, aiming for profitability. In addition, the main shareholder, Georges-Henri Meylan adds “H. Moser & Cie’s production facility is strategic for our group, especially the production of balance-springs and regulating organs”.
Today, Switzerland represents the primary market, but the structure from Melbourne to Hong Kong provides it with a golden bridge to the Chinese Mecca. Amongst the openings of new markets which in time will include 150 retailers and a few boutiques, Russia is unquestionably a must, given that this is where the brand was born.
