Focus: Roger Dubuis

Excalibur Blacklight

CASE : openworked white gold (or pink gold or black DLC titanium), bezel set with 60 round-cut diamonds, water-resistant to 50m


MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Caliber RD820SQ, 60h power reserve), micro-rotor, 160 components, hand finishing, “Poinçon de Genève”

FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes

DIAL : rhodium-plated inner bezel ring

STRAP : blue alligator leather with adjustable folding clasp


Making (light) waves

Roger Dubuis has never done things by half, especially not with its Excalibur line. In the highly specialized segment of contemporary hyper horology, the Geneva-based manufacturer has established itself with its avant-garde timepieces reflecting a certain vision of luxury watchmaking. When it comes to enlivening its best-selling line, the Excalibur automatic skeleton, it is offering a radical design innovation and literally lighting up its its in-house caliber. For the first time in the history of watchmaking, a skeletonized caliber is adorned with micro-structures made of lab-grown sapphires and spinels – both naturally luminescent – arranged in a star shape. To accentuate this effect in the dark and especially under UV light, they are finely highlighted with luminescent material. A wow effect is thus guaranteed, whether on the deck of a yacht or under the spotlights of the most prominent nightclubs. As diamonds can also give off a certain amount of luminescence, Roger Dubuis’ gemsetters have selected a majority of them without luminescence, so that only those in the center of the star shine. The Excalibur Blacklight is available in a chromatic trilogy with a case in white gold, pink gold or titanium.

Brice Lechevalier is editor-in-chief of GMT and Skippers, which he co-founded in 2000 and 2001 respectively. He has also been CEO of WorldTempus since it joined the GMT Publishing stable, of which he is director and joint shareholder. In 2012 he created the Geneva Watch Tour, and he has been an advisor to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève since 2011. Also closely involved in sailing, he has published the magazine of the Société Nautique de Genève since 2003, and was one of the founders of the SUI Sailing Awards in 2009 and the Concours d’Elégance for motor boats at the Cannes Yachting Festival in 2015.

Review overview