Chanel : A feminine vintage

A natural-born androgynous model with a style mingling sportiness with elegance, the J12 is a profoundly adaptable watch that lends itself to all manner of masculine and feminine desires. The ever-broadening range of choices encompasses a wealth of options in terms of style, movements, functions, materials and precious stones. The latest version deliberately targets women in an unprecedented 36.5 mm diameter. Code-named J12-365, it is designed to be worn in all circumstances, 365 days a year. This model features a slender bezel – similar to that of the J12 GMT or Superleggera Chronograph models – that keeps the same ratcheted outer ring but does without the generally associated minutes ring. The dial thus enjoys an optimally wide opening to highlight its pure design. Against a delicately guilloché background, the numerals and hour-markers are more discreet than usual, while a small seconds subdial is offset from the central hours and minutes display. Driven by an automatic movement also powering a date indication, the new J12-365 is now the smallest mechanical watch in the entire range.

 

As one would expect, the J12-365 comes with a high-tech ceramic case and bracelet, a now relatively common choice that was anything but typical when Chanel adopted it. The House has infused a noble touch into this material composed of zirconium dioxide and yttrium powder and boasting exceptional properties. Stainless as well as scratch- and fade-resistant, it acquires a fascinating radiance when polished with diamond powder. For the J12-365, the ceramic is either an intense black or an immaculate white, the two hues that surprised industry observers at their respective launches in 2000 and 2003.

 

Chanel introduces another source of astonishment in 2014 by launching an exclusive alloy that gives gold a remarkably elegant, pleasingly warm shade of beige. In the J12-365 line, this material appears on the bezel, numerals, hands and crowns of certain models, as an alternative to steel. For women seeking an additional touch of sophistication, Chanel offers versions delicately set with brilliant-cut diamonds : 69 on the inner bezel ring surrounding the dial and 68 on the small seconds sundial. The launch of this exclusively feminine collection comprises eight references in Gabrielle Chanel’s favorite colors : four black and four white. While undeniably moderate in all respects, they nonetheless retain the strength of character of the iconic J12 collection.

 

 

Place Vendôme. Gabrielle Chanel lived there in a room at the Ritz Hotel, during World War II and upon returning from Switzerland. The octagonal shape of the square inspired the bottle stopper of the N°5 fragrance in 1921, as well as that of the case and beveled glass of the Première watch – the first ever introduced by Chanel – in 1987.

 

“The classic bag”: such is the name by which the famous quilted Chanel handbag is known. Gabrielle Chanel drew inspiration from the chains that the nuns of her childhood orphanage used to wear at their belt as key-rings, in creating the double-chain shoulder strap, initially in metal only and later enhanced with leather, now inseparably associated with the handbag. It is variously interpreted in the design of most wristbands  of the Première watches.

 

The collection now welcomes a new quartz Triple Row version. Its particularly slim and elongated steel case measures 15.8 mm wide, 23.6 mm long and 6.2 mm thick. A single black leather strap is woven across the entire length of the chain bracelet that coils three times around the wrist. This Première Triple Row faithfully evokes the “classic handbag”, doubtless more closely than any other model in the collection.

 

 

Mademoiselle Privé. That was the sign appearing on the door of Gabrielle Chanel’s office in her couture House on the Rue Cambon in Paris. It is also the name given to a collection of precious watches reinterpreting symbols of objects dear to the designer through a variety of handcrafts : jewelry, enameling, engraving, sculpture, marquetry, embroidery …

 

Camellia : Mademoiselle’s favorite flower remains an inexhaustible source of inspiration. In the language of flowers, it symbolizes longevity and happiness. Gabrielle Chanel made it an emblem of elegance by launching the fashion for wearing a white camellia in a buttonhole. Ever since, it has been interpreted in many different ways, particularly on jewelry or High Jewelry watches. In the Mademoiselle Privé watch collection, camellias appear set with precious stones, sculpted from gold or mother-of-pearl, embroidered with silk threads or crafted in lacquer according to the Japanese maki-e technique.

 

Two creations with self-winding movements feature lacquered dials. One bears three raised black camellias with encrusted gold paillons to underscore the outline of the petals. On the other, the camellias are formed by gold paillons against a black background and the three generously sized blooms feature corollae sprinkled with eggshell fragments. Diamond-set yellow gold cases highlight these typically Chanel and highly original works of art.

 

J12-365 

Case : black high-tech ceramic and steel  Diameter : 36.5mm  Movement : mechanical self-winding,  42h power reserve Functions : hours, minutes, small seconds, date Dial : black with guilloché motif Bracelet : black high-tech ceramic, triple  folding clasp Water resistance : 100m

 

J12-365

Case : white high-tech ceramic and beige gold Diameter : 36.5mm  Movement: mechanical self-winding, 42h power reserve Functions : hours, minutes, small seconds, date Dial : opaline white with guilloché motif, diamond-set inner bezel ring and small seconds subdial  Bracelet : white high-tech ceramic, triple folding clasp Water resistance : 100m

 

Première Triple Row

Case : steel, crown set with a cabochon-cut onyx Dimensions : 15.8 x 23.6 x 6.2mm Movement : quartz Functions : hours, minutes Dial : black lacquered Bracelet : steel chain interwoven with black leather Water resistance : 30m

 

Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Maki-e Dial

Case : yellow gold, bezel set with 60 diamonds, crown set with a cabochon-cut onyx Diameter : 37.5mm  Movement : mechanical self-winding, 42h power reserve Functions : hours, minutes Dial : black lacquered, camellias formed by yellow gold paillons,  3 camellias formed by eggshell fragments Strap : black satin, pin buckle set with 80 diamonds Water resistance : 30m

 

Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Maki-e Dial

Case : yellow gold, bezel set with 60 diamonds, crown set with a cabochon-cut onyx  Diameter : 37.5mm Movement : mechanical self-winding, 42h power reserve  Functions : hours, minutes  Dial : black lacquered, camellias formed by yellow gold paillons  Strap : black satin, pin buckle set with 80 diamonds Water resistance : 30m


Brice Lechevalier is editor-in-chief of GMT and Skippers, which he co-founded in 2000 and 2001 respectively. He has also been CEO of WorldTempus since it joined the GMT Publishing stable, of which he is director and joint shareholder. In 2012 he created the Geneva Watch Tour, and he has been an advisor to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève since 2011. Also closely involved in sailing, he has published the magazine of the Société Nautique de Genève since 2003, and was one of the founders of the SUI Sailing Awards in 2009 and the Concours d’Elégance for motor boats at the Cannes Yachting Festival in 2015.

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