De Bethune : De Bethune’s role as a laboratory…

DB28 “Aiguille d’Or”
Case : grade 5 titanium or rose gold
Diameter:42,6mm Movement: hand-wound mechanical movement (Calibre DB 2115, 6-day power reserve), mainplate hand-decorated and snailed, hand-chamfered and polished steel parts, 4 patents: self-regulating twin barrel, silicon/platinum balance wheel, triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, exclusive three-dimensional moon-phase display Functions: hours, minutes, spherical moon-phase indicator at 6 o’clock, best-performance zone indication at 3 o’clock, power-reserve indication on the back Dial: polished grade 5 titanium hour circle and silvered minute circle, mainplate hand-decorated and snailed, hand-chamfered and polished steel parts, De Bethune stripes, mirror-polished stainless steel with rose gold insert Water-resistance: 30m  Strap: extra-supple alligator leather with pin buckle Limited edition: 50 pieces

 

DB28 ST
Case : mirror-polished grade 5 titanium, patented floating type lugs in grade 5 titanium with pivoting system Diameter : 43mm Movement : hand-wound mechanical movement (Calibre DB 2119, 4-day power reserve), mainplate hand-decorated and snailed, hand-chamfered and polished steel parts, patented self-regulating twin barrel and silicon/white gold balance wheel with flat terminal curve, De Bethune 30» silicon/titanium tourbillon (36,000 vph), silicon escape wheel Functions : hours, minutes, central jumping seconds, tourbillon with 30-second indication, linear power-reserve indicator with jewelled bars at 6 o’clock Dial : silver-toned with hand-decorated mainplate and bridges, hand-chamfered steel parts, Côtes de Bethune motif, chapter ring in grained and engraved sterling silver, cut-out hands (mirror-polished, flame-blued steel) Water-resistance : 30m Strap : extra-supple alligator leather with pin buckle

While the purely aesthetic aspect of De Bethune masterpieces speaks for itself on the photos illustrating those pages, their technical content generally elicits stunned admiration among even the most blasé observers. De Bethune tirelessly invests in its production facilities and has established a cutting-edge production site and an extremely creative technical and fundamental research department. This is a place where measuring time is all that counts, but where time is never counted. De Bethune has filed new patents each year since its founding, initially distinguishing itself by its famous three-dimensional moon-phase mechanism. In addition to creating its own balance-spring, it also became the first watch brand to use silicon in its movements, or a combination of titanium and platinum in its escape-wheels. All components of the 11 calibres developed in-house continue to be the object of in-depth study, and their construction is consistently challenged with each new model. In parallel with this quest for constant innovation, the collection is constantly revisited and every detail comes under intense scrutiny in a tireless quest for perfection, like for instance with the DB28.
The DB28 ST is nurtured by a horological culture and philosophy that its creators David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet share and perpetuate in a resolutely avant-garde manner at De Bethune. The research conducted on the miniaturisation of the grand regulator timepieces that were admired and collected by one of the company founders and lovingly restored by the other, testifies to their desire to bring the horological quintessence of these historical works to the wrist. Each aesthetic detail – from the choice of materials to the curves, the volumes, the shape of the hands, and of course the finishes – has its own specific reason for being. None are there by chance, and each contributes to a subtle equilibrium dedicated to purity, aesthetic restraint and readability. The soft gleam of the platinum bezel effects the transition from the cool shade of the titanium case to the warmth of the sterling silver chapter ring. The layered dial structure is built around suspension bridges featuring fine lines and multiple decorations serving to elevate the central mechanism as well as enhancing its functionality. The silicon/titanium De Bethune tourbillon, the lightest and fastest on the market, combined with the jumping seconds mechanism, are proudly displayed at the heart of this model, endowing it with peerless technical and aesthetic splendour.
Last year at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, the DB28 model was awarded the Aiguille d’Or (Golden Hand), the supreme distinction of these prestigious awards. To celebrate this victory, De Bethune revisits this iconic model and offers a limited edition featuring subtle details that are sure to delight collectors and dedicated enthusiasts. The characteristic aesthetic of the DB28 is enriched with a rose gold baguette-shaped insert adorning the minute hand. The distinctive shape of the mirror-polished titanium case, inspired by pocket watches, accentuated by the spherical moon phase and by the silicon/palladium balance, features an exhibition back revealing a finely decorated movement enhanced by gold wheels and a gold hand for the linear power reserve.  The DB28 « Aiguille d’Or » features a pure style in which the taut lines, the exquisite hand-crafted finishes and the slenderness of the case combine with the technical innovations to offer a contemporary expression of the horological art according to De Bethune.
The classic DB25 collection, with its dreamy depiction of the star-studded sky, welcomes a delightful feminine touch in the shape of the dainty DB25 s jewellery model. This creation is distinguished by the many ways in which the light plays across the materials and the complex dial architecture. The dark gleam of hand-polished and blued titanium, the sparkling twinkle of the white gold and diamond stars, and the muted glow of the curved blued steel hands… The depth of this star-studded sky is revealed through the alternating curves that are convex on the outside for the chapter ring, and concave in the centre. A spherical moon set with sapphires and diamonds shines at 12 o’clock, providing an exceptionally accurate moon-phase display that will diverge from astronomical reality by just one day in 122 years. This Haute Joaillerie creation enjoys all the advantages of De Bethune technology, since it is powered by the hand-crafted DB2024 movement, of which the mirror-polished finish, the silicon/platinum annular balance, and the triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system may be admired through the back of the watch.

 

 

DB25 s Jewellery
Case: drum-shaped  in  white gold set with 61 baguette-cut blue sapphires totalling 5.29 cts, hollowed lugs, sapphire crystal case-back (1800 Vickers) Diameter: 40mm Movement: self-winding mechanical movement (Calibre DB 2105, 6 day power reserve), mainplate hand-decorated and snailed, hand-chamfered and polished steel parts, 4 patents: self-regulating twin barrel, silicon/platinum balance wheel, triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, exclusive three-dimensional moon-phase display Functions: hours, minutes, De Bethune spherical moon-phase Dial: De Bethune star-studded sky in flame-blued mirror-polished titanium with white gold stars and 21 diamonds, moon set with 44 diamonds and 44 blue sapphires at 12 o’clock, curved hands & hand-polished flame-blued steel Water-resistance: 30m Strap: extra-supple alligator leather with pin buckle

 

To celebrate its 10th anniversary, De Bethune presents all devotees of Haute Horlogerie with the Titan Hawk, the first creation in its new DB27 collection. Make no mistake about it : the most affordable De Bethune in the collection has all the qualities to which De Bethune has accustomed the most demanding collectors, starting with a breathtaking aesthetic appeal and patented technical features. The most immediately visible is the short floating lugs in titanium framing the case in mirror-polished grade 5 titanium and which are immediately identifiable and greatly appreciated by devotees of Fine Watchmaking”. Their springs enable them to softly mould the wrist shape and its movements. Three other patents registered by the Manufacture De Bethune accentuate the extremely rich horological content of the DB27 : a self-regulating twin barrel ensuring a six-day power reserve; an ultra-light silicon and white gold balance wheel with a flat terminal curve delivering an ideal inertia/mass ratio; and a triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system serving to reduce potential disturbances due to impacts to a minimum and protecting the balance-spring pivots. The only manufacturer to have acquired such supreme mastery of mirror polishing on a grade 5 titanium case, De Bethune confronts wears of this mechanical gem with a very real dilemma. Since this subtle aesthetic feature is also applied to the solid back of the DB27 Titan Hawk, bearing a sculpted almond shape opening onto the balance wheel of the self-winding Calibre S233. This elegant and original overall effect evokes a work of modern art and vies with the fascination of the front of the timepiece. The play of superimposed geometrical shapes on the concentric silver-toned Microlight dial cannot fail to appeal, while the distinctive shapes of the blued steel hands draw the gaze as they sweep over the series of numerals: Roman for the chapter ring, and Arabic for the minute circle and the central calendar display. The crown at 12 o’clock sets the finishing touch to the inimitable and truly remarkable DB27, a sporty, high-tech model designed both for demanding connoisseurs and for a young generation of wearers eager to adopt the De Bethune genetic imprint. It also reflects the influence of Pierre Jaques, who was appointed as CEO last year by the
brand founders.


Brice Lechevalier is editor-in-chief of GMT and Skippers, which he co-founded in 2000 and 2001 respectively. He has also been CEO of WorldTempus since it joined the GMT Publishing stable, of which he is director and joint shareholder. In 2012 he created the Geneva Watch Tour, and he has been an advisor to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève since 2011. Also closely involved in sailing, he has published the magazine of the Société Nautique de Genève since 2003, and was one of the founders of the SUI Sailing Awards in 2009 and the Concours d’Elégance for motor boats at the Cannes Yachting Festival in 2015.

Review overview
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