Jacob & Co : Creating revolutionary timepieces …

With its mesmerizing orbiting display, the Astronomia Tourbillon is a poetic visual rendering of the celestial world – with every element in constant, visible motion, all under the control of the oscillator at the heart of the tourbillon – that captures the very essence of the wonder with which horology fans gaze upon the heavens. The heart of the Astronomia is a four-armed carrier, which rotates once every twenty minutes. On one arm is the tourbillon, which in addition to rotating once around the dial every twenty minutes, also rotates around the axis of the arm carrying it once every five minutes, and around its own axis once every 60 seconds. The triple-axis tourbillon, carrier, dial, and two celestial bodies in constant motion place enormous demands both on the watchmaker’s craft – each watch requiring a master’s touch in assembly and adjustment – and on the mechanism itself; the entire construction must, despite its size, be perfectly poised and as light as possible, both to avoid damage due to shock and to maintain a stable rate. The tourbillon cage is constructed with a large, screw-poised balance with an overcoil balance spring featuring a mathematically correct Phillips terminal curve. Opposite the balance is the dial showing the hours and minutes. The openworked dial makes for a beautifully visually balanced counterpoint to the revolving tourbillon carriage, and its Roman numerals lend a touch of classicism and formal beauty to the overall design. The dial is mounted on a unique and specially designed differential system, which causes it to rotate as the central carrier turns –this ensures that the 12:00 marker is always uppermost and that the time can always be easily read.

 

Two celestial objects complete the composition : the Earth, and the Moon. The Moon is represented by a spherical, briolette-cut diamond which, in addition to rotating around the dial once every 20 minutes on the carrier, also rotates on its own axis once every sixty seconds, with each of its 56 facets constantly catching and refracting the light, produce a spectacular kinetic display of the diamond’s fire. The Earth, which rotates once every sixty seconds on its own axis, is represented by a globe made of white gold, with the oceans represented by the deep blue, translucent grand feu enamel that requires the extremely demanding technique of applying and firing enamel on a spherical surface. The orbiting display floats above a dial of deep blue aventurine – a precious stone that gives an incredible three dimensional depth and the appearance of a midnight sky dusted with stars. With all these elements turning and spinning, the display of the watch will never be the same each time you marvel at it on your wrist. The entire dazzling mechanical display takes place under a complex, highly domed sapphire crystal, almost hemispherical in shape, which emphasizes the universe-in-miniature flavor of the watch. The 18k rose gold case is inspired by another architectural masterpiece, the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum.

 

A fusion of time and light, the Palatial Opera Flying Tourbillon is an exquisite masterpiece of horology and gem-setting. Constructed to resemble an amphitheater, every superbly executed detail has been designed and crafted to invite the apparently free-standing, or flying tourbillon to take center stage. Behind the scenes at the Jacob & Co. Geneva, Switzerland atelier, micro-mechanical engineers and gem setters working on the Palatial Opera Flying Tourbillon employed a repertoire.

 

 

Recognized as the “Master of World Time”, Jacob & Co loves to move in new and different directions. One of the undeniable highlights of BaselWorld was the EPIC SF24, a technological breakthrough in travel time display. The SF in the name stands for “split flap” – named for the mechanical information boards seen in airports and train stations the world over. Continuing Jacob & Co.’s penchant for pushing the limit of design and production and doing things no watchmaker has ever attempted, the EPIC SF24 is the first time that a split flap has been integrated into a watch. Using a Concepto movement as a base fitted with the world time-SF24 module developed by Studio 7h38 (Jacob & Co.’s movement development workshop), this patented time-keeper is able to display 24 different time zones, allowing the wearer to see at a glance two time zones simultaneously. Presented first in a more “classic version” in rose gold, the SF24 is now introduced in black PVD grade 5 titanium, giving this stunning timepiece an entirely new look. Very easy to read, both versions are also easy to wear.

 

Besides, the company expands the EPIC X collection with the EPIC X Racing, new colored versions of the EPIC X that take the sporting nature of these timepieces to a new dimension. Unlike most open-worked watches, which are skeletonized versions of normal watches, the Epic X collection is built around a specially constructed movement – the exclusive Jacob and Co. caliber JA, which has been de¬signed as an open-worked caliber from the beginning. The movement components are supported by two girder-like structures which flank the mainspring barrel and the balance wheel. The high tech nature of the movement contrasts vividly with its meticulous finishing, including carefully chamfered bridges and mirror-polished screws, with the entire composition punctuated by the highly polished settings for the going-train and balance jewels. The engineers and watchmakers have found a way to add color to the EPIC X, in the form of inserts into the distinctive case, while at the same time using new materials in the case itself. The colors available in the Titanium (Grade 5 Titanium with colored rubber inserts) and Black (the black is Black DLC Grade 5 Titanium with colored Neoralithe inserts) versions are red, blue, orange and white.

 

Palatial Opera Flying Tourbillon

Case : 18K rose gold with circular satin-finish, invisibly set with 142 baguette diamonds (11.70ct), bezel set with 50 baguette diamonds (8.10 ct)., crown set with 9 baguette diamonds and 1 rose cut diamond (0.55 ct), sapphire glass case back, water resistant to 30m Size : 47mm Movement : hand-wound mechanical movement (caliber JCBM01, 100h power reserve), 194 components, titanium balance with gold timing screw, satin-finished, hand-polished angles, drawn-finished flanks Functions : hours, minutes, power reserve indicator on the back, 1mn flying tourbillon Dial : 18K rose gold invisibly set with 174 baguette diamonds (10.90ct), skeleton hands Strap : alligator, 18K rose gold deployment buckle invisibly set with 23 baguette diamonds (1.50 ct)

 

Brilliant Skeleton Jewelry

Case : 18K rose gold polished and set with 294 round diamonds (8.88ct), crown set with 31 round white diamond sapphires ; caseback with engraved edge, water resistant to 30m  Size : 44mm Movement : hand-wound mechanical movement (caliber JCAM01, 46h power reserve), angled bridges with sand-blasted finishing, angled steel elements with drawn-finishing, open-worked anthracite movement with rose gold finish “Jacob&Co” logo, bridges and gears Functions : hours, minutes Strap : satin with 18K rose gold tang buckle set with 42 round white diamonds (0.72 ct) Limited edition : 101 individually numbered pieces

 

Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Arlequino

Case : 18K white gold invisibly set with 68 baguette multicolor sapphires (6.01ct) and 137 baguette white diamonds (11.30ct), crown set with 9 baguette multicolor sapphires (0.60ct), 5 baguette diamonds (0.21ct) and 1 rose cut yellow sapphire (0.32ct), sapphire glass case back, water resistant to 30m Size : 47mm Movement : hand-wound mechanical movement (caliber JCBM01, 100h power reserve), 206 components, titanium balance with gold timing screw, satin-finished bridges, hand-polished angles, drawn-finished flanks, circular satin-brushed “Jacob&Co“ upper bridge of the tourbillon cage Functions : hours, minutes, 1mn flying tourbillon Dial : invisibly set with 90 baguette multicolor sapphires (9.10ct) and 66 baguette white diamonds (3.68ct) Strap : alligator with 18K white gold tang buckle set with 13 baguette multicolor sapphires  (0.97ct) and 7 baguette white diamonds (0.41 ct)

 

Astronomia Tourbillon 

Case : 18K rose gold and diamond microparticule policarbonate fiber, domed sapphire crystal, 18k rose gold case back with winding and time-setting via 18K rose gold lift-out rotating “bows”, water resistant to 30m Size : 47mm Movement : hand-wound mechanical movement (caliber JCEM01, 72h power reserve), 236 components, titanium balance with gold timing screw, satin-finished, hand-polished angles, drawn-finished flanks Functions : hours, mn, dial rotating in 20mn on the central axe, differential gears system, briolette diamond rotating in 60s on 2 axes, enamel globe 18K white gold hand-engraved rotating in 60s on 2 axes, gravitational orbital tourbillion cage rotating on 3 axes, Haute Horlogerie finishing Dial : hand- engraved, laquered indexes, diamond finish Strap : alligator, 18K rose gold deployment buckle Limited edition : 9 pieces

 

Epic X Racing Black DLC/Red

Case : grade 5 titanium with colored rubber inserts or black DLC grade 5 titanium with colored neoralithe inserts, micro blasted and Satin-finished, water resistant to 50m Size : 44mm Movement : hand-wound mechanical movement (skeleton caliber JCAM02, 48h power reserve), 158 components, barrel with sliding clamp system, sand blasted, angled and drawn-finished bridges, matching colored lacquer on vertical bridges Functions : hours, minutes Strap : openwork “honeycomb” rubber; adjustable deployment clasp

 

EPIC SF24 Rose Gold

Case : 18K rose gold (or white gold or grade 5 titanium), satined, micro-blasted and polished, domed sapphire crystal, lateral honeycomb inserts, sapphire glass case back, water resistant to 30m Size : 45mm Movement : self-winding mechanical movement (patented caliber JCAA02, Xh power reserve), 473 components, balance with screw, ceramic ball bearing system Functions : hours, mn, seconds, instantaneous 24h world time indication  Dial : open-worked with sapphire hours minutes dial, micro-blasted center, digital and Vertical GMT display Strap : alligator, 18K rose gold deployment buckle Limited edition :  101 pieces, individually numbered pieces.


Brice Lechevalier is editor-in-chief of GMT and Skippers, which he co-founded in 2000 and 2001 respectively. He has also been CEO of WorldTempus since it joined the GMT Publishing stable, of which he is director and joint shareholder. In 2012 he created the Geneva Watch Tour, and he has been an advisor to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève since 2011. Also closely involved in sailing, he has published the magazine of the Société Nautique de Genève since 2003, and was one of the founders of the SUI Sailing Awards in 2009 and the Concours d’Elégance for motor boats at the Cannes Yachting Festival in 2015.

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