For almost four years, the Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection has benefited from an unprecedented wave of creativity, where the innovation and imagination of Cartier’s designer-watchmakers have been combined with the expertise and the excellence of the Manufacture’s craftsmen. This year, Cartier is presenting three new Fine Watchmaking movements and a new version of the Calibre de Cartier watch, equipped for the first time with an Astrotourbillon movement.

Unveiled in 2010 after five years of research, the famous Astrotourbillon movement now powers the Calibre de Cartier watch. This spectacular tourbillon features several specific characteristics that make it truly unique, including its rotational axis in the centre of the movement and the fact that the tourbillon carriage is positioned “above” the movement. The famous movement has been given a setting worthy of its creative technical sophistication at the heart of a 47 mm case. The imposing strength and presence of this model are lightened by the use of titanium and matched by exceptional wearer comfort thanks to four lugs dipping towards the wrist to mould its shape. This distinctive watch is available in an 100-piece limited series featuring beautiful finishing on both the case and the movement.

The queen of complications also shows another face through a modern interpretation of skeletonised watchmaking. The Pasha de Cartier skeleton flying tourbillon watch sets the stage for a spectacular interplay of full and empty spaces: within a 42 mm diameter, the airy transparency of the movement contrasts with the powerful impact of a design embellished with hand-performed finishes such as bevelled bridges, satin-brushed sides and circular-grained wheels. The resulting work of art will grace the wrist of only 100 fortunate owners.

The powerful and masculine 45 mm-diameter Calibre de Cartier Multi Time Zone watch in white gold is the very first model in the Fine Watchmaking collection to display world time. Equipped with Calibre 9909 MC, this model is distinguished from others offering the same functions by its city disc which is totally integrated within the movement and visible through a lateral magnifier instead of on the dial. Each press on the pivoting pushpiece reveals a different city, its local time and the time difference between the home time and the traveller’s time.

Finally, the watch Manufacture has fulfilled the dream of all watchmakers with the Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur watch : that of mastering gravity. Compensating for the effects of gravity has always been one of watchmaking’s greatest challenges. Gravity disturbs the isochronism of a watch by displacing the centre of gravity of its balance and spring assembly. Until now, the tourbillon has been the oldest and most common solution to this problem. The designers and master watchmakers at the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds have developed a movement that offers an alternative solution to the tourbillon.  Cartier has therefore designed an innovative anti-gravity system using the only element that always returns to the same position in the vertical plane: the rotor.

In the 9800 MC Astrorégulateur movement, the escapement, the oscillator and the pendular seconds have been positioned on the rotor to maintain the centre of gravity in a single position. By adjusting the oscillator in this one position, the master watchmaker ensures that the platform of the Astrorégulateur movement avoids the disturbing effect of gravity on timekeeping in all vertical positions. This ingenious mechanism housed within a 50 mm XXL niobium-titanium case is available in a numbered 50-piece limited edition.

 

The House of Cartier has always placed artistic crafts at the very heart of its creations. For the last decade, this rich heritage has been particularly honoured by the watchmaking marvels of the Cartier Art collection.  Ever the creative artisan, Cartier is now introducing a magical menagerie composed of six new creations showcasing this unusual encounter between artistic crafts and watchmaking expertise.

Cartier explores the world of mosaics with the Rotonde de Cartier 42 mm watch, turtle motif in stone mosaic which highlights the total control of every movement, along with passion and ingenuity combined with great patience. Everything starts with the search for the right stones: onyx, tiger’s eye, falcon’s eye, yellow pietersite, carnelian… The rounded stones in assorted warm shades are split and then cut into 0.75 squares, 0.4 mm thick. Next the squares are positioned in a specific order according to the design, which outlines each scale of the shell and each foot in black to separate the colour and highlight the shapes. Gradually, the turtle emerges as the 1,167 tesserae are placed.

Crafting the Rotonde de Cartier 42 mm watch, bear motif in plique-à-jour paillonné enamel also called for impressive mastery. Cartier is reviving this special artistic technique to produce a dial in plique-à-jour paillonné enamel. This work evokes the poetry of confidential craftsmanship, drawing on patience and research, expertise and secrets, trials and scucesses. Like a stained-glass window, the dial in plique-à-jour enamel comes to life. The translucent enamel plays with light, suspended between fragile borders that are as delicate and elegant as a pencil line.

The Tortue XL watch with jaguar motif in relief engraving and champlevé enamel features an unusual combination of these two artistic crafts to convey the power and realism of the majestic feline. Composed of four pieces assembled and adjusted with great precision, the high-relief engraving of the dial gives shadow to each detail, highlighting the deep-set eyes, the shape of the jaw and the size of the muzzle to such an extent that the animal seems ready to spring out of the watch. The realism is heighted by the craftsman’s ability to recreate an impression of fur and of staring eyes using a flat graver, before pricking them with a slender point-graver.

Cartier also highlights other techniques such as wood marquetry work with the Rotonde de Cartier 42mm watch with bear motif. Or that of grand feu enamelling and gemsetting with the Ballon Bleu de Cartier large model with monkey motif. And finally, a magnificent combination of mother-of-pearl marquetry work, grand feu champlevé enamel and pink sapphire gemsetting revealed in the hummingbird décor adorning the Santos 100 watch, medium model.

 

 

It’s a first for Cartier, since the illustrious watch and jewellery company will be presenting an exceptional exhibition taking visitors on a journey to the heart of Cartier watchmaking, on show from August 26th to November 6th 2011 at the Museum Bellerive in Zurich. This museum will be the first location in a series of exhibitions that make up a worldwide touring event. “Cartier Time Art” unites the largest number of Cartier timepieces ever displayed in public, from its origins through to the present day, and offers a rare opportunity to contemplate Cartier’s creativity. Throughout the ages, this collection of creations has successfully mixed ingenuity with aesthetical and technical innovation and is a testament to the vitality of Cartier’s watchmaking heritage. The rich language of shapes, designs and complications apparent in these objects emphasises Cartier’s high level of expertise.

Among the 156 historical pieces on display in this exhibition, Cartier has chosen to present twelve exceptional Fine Watchmaking movements through seventeen watches showcased in an original 3D setting thanks to highly sophisticated scenography devised by Tokujin Yoshioka. These include Calibre 9800 MC powering the Rotonde Cartier Astrorégulateur watch. Taking inventiveness and research to a whole new level, Cartier also presents the Cartier ID One model, a concept watch that requires no adjustment throughout its existence : crafted and assembled according to an original concept based on cutting-edge materials and technologies, it offers a fascinating glimpse into the watchmaking future at Cartier.