Expressing the past in the future tense

Patek Philippe is definitely a brand for insiders. Its creations are authentic works of art, a truth vividly illustrated by the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator reference 5235 equipped with an aperture-type Annual Calendar, Calibre 31-260 REG QA. For the first time in Patek Philippe’s history, a movement has been designed right from the outset to house a regulating organ in Silinvar®, a patented silicon-based material. This regulating organ is composed of a Spiromax® balance-spring and a Pulsomax® escapement. Alongside this innovation, the Patek Philippe engineers have also entirely reworked and optimised the movement going train – from the barrel through to the pallet level. The profile of the wheel teeth and pinion leaves has been enhanced so as to significantly increase efficiency while reducing wear. Another key asset lies in the approximately 10 % increase in frequency to a rate of 23,040 vph (around 3.2 Hz), along with a higher power reserve. By thus optimising the energy efficiency, the developers were able to use a mainspring that is not only less powerful but also longer, thus ensuring a maximum 60-hour power reserve. In aesthetic terms, the case reflects the famous classic Calatrava design, which has established itself for almost 70 years as the quintessence of the round wristwatch. And finally, the Patek Phililppe Annual Calendar Regulator reference 5235 once again proves that the Geneva-based manufacturer is a master in achieving the delicate balance between original aesthetics and timeless elegance. This exceptional timepiece it not only innovative in visual terms, but also houses a mechanical heart pushing the limits of watchmaking technology. The epitome of the Patek Philippe spirit.
It is a worthy successor to the “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” special watches, the 100 to 300-piece limited editions that were sold out as soon as they were launched. Like its three predecessors, the Perpetual Calendar “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” reference 5550P features a major innovation in the field of the silicon-based material Silinvar®. It comprises three patented Silinvar® Patek Philippe components: the Spiromax® balance-spring, the Pulsomax® escapement, and the GyromaxSi® balance. Silinvar® technology has led to a spectacular breakthrough embodied in this watchmaking classic. Thanks to its innovative components such as the Pulsomax® escapement and the GyromaxSi® balance, the overall efficiency of the Oscillomax® is considerably improved. This gain is mainly based on the perceptibly lower mass of Silinvar® parts compared with conventional components, on the optimised geometry of the lever and the escape-wheel, as well as on the much-improved aerodynamics and mass distribution of the GyromaxSi® balance. Less energy dissipated means greater efficiency of the movement’s operating autonomy, which means the self-winding perpetual calendar model in this “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” edition is now endowed with a power reserve of up to 70 hours. Another advantage of this construction lies in its improved reliability thanks to lubricant-free operation. The third element of the Oscillomax® ensemble is the patented Spiromax® balance-spring made of Silinvar®. Thanks to the exceptional physical properties of the material and to its exclusive patented geometry (Patek Philippe terminal curve, integrated collet and stud attachment), this avant-garde balance-spring makes a decisive contribution to the movement’s isochronism. Its oscillation is perfectly symmetrical and it is also antimagnetic, corrosion-resistant and extremely insensitive to shocks. Moreover, the Spiromax® flat balance-spring offers the additional advantage of being three times thinner than a Breguet balance-spring, thereby making it ideal for making ultra-thin movements. Issued in a 300-piece limited edition, the Perpetual Calendar “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” reference 5550P meets the demanding standards of the Patek Philippe Seal.

 

 

For cosmopolitan women : the world’s thinnest split-seconds chronograph

At Patek Philippe, complicated watches for ladies are a venerable tradition. Long ago, the company introduced repeaters in delicate feminine formats that announced the time with gentle sounds as a very rare and exclusive musical diversion. Now, Patek Philippe presents the first two Grand Complication models for ladies.
The case of the ultra-thin Ladies First split-seconds monopusher chronograph 7059R unites classic design, traditional artistry, and feminine elegance with true panache. The distinctive Officer’s-style case with straight lugs and screwed strap bars reflects the classic-traditional aspects of the new Ladies First Split Seconds Chronograph 7059R. Its feminine facets are underscored by the soft, romantic glow of 18K rose gold 4N and the fiery passion of the 153 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds (~0.72 ct.) set in its bezel. A sapphire-crystal case back adorned with 76 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds totaling approx. 0.40 ct. showcases the ultimate in watchmaking artistry. The focus is on two column wheels crowned with polished caps, a respected tradition at Patek Philippe. They are framed by lavishly decorated bridges with polished chamfers and Geneva striping. The display back also reveals elegantly shaped parts and the striking bridges “à l’ancienne” with reentrant angles that can only be finished by hand, a process that requires exceptional talent and many years of experience. Movements like this cannot be produced with assembly-line methods. They are crafted individually by the hands of a master watchmaker. Because of this, Patek Philippe can only produce very few pieces of the 7059R Ladies First split-seconds chronograph per year. This makes them all the more tempting as cherished companions for women who are attracted to watchmaking prowess at its very finest.
This year Patek Philippe also decided to introduce the first minute repeater in its collection of ladies’ wristwatches : the Ladies First Minute Repeater 7000R. Ordinarily, minute repeaters belong to the category of large wristwatches. But here, Patek Philippe made an exception because its self-winding caliber R 27 PS is one of the thinnest movements with a striking mechanism. It not only ranks among the few repeater movements that are self-winding but thanks to the off-center minirotor in 22K gold – fully recessed in the plate – its height is a scant 5.05 mm. These are ideal assets for a watch intended to elegantly grace a feminine wrist, despite the formidable horological degrees of difficulty that it incorporates. Watches with minute repeaters have always ranked among the rarest, most precious, and most elaborate timepieces. In an extremely compact space, their intricate inner life brings together hundreds of individual parts that interact and function in harmony, or move next to each other with minimal clearances, without making contact. The objective of the effort is to strike the time displayed on the dial with the best possible acoustic sonority. And so, at 3:34 for instance, the time is indicated with a dongdong-dong for the hours on a low-pitched gong, a ding-dong, ding-dong on both gongs for the quarterhours, and a ding-ding-ding-ding for the minutes on the high-pitched gong. Technical finesse that makes time so seductively audible is bound to attract the attention of women as well.

 

Ladies First monopusher split-seconds chronograph Reference 7059R
Case : 18K rose gold (4N), cambered sapphire crystal, bezel with 153 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds (0.72 ct.,), sapphire-crystal display back with 76 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds (0.40 ct.) Diameter : 33,2mm Movement : Ultra-thin manually wound mechanical movement (Caliber CHR 27-525 PS) Functions : hours, minutes, monopusher splitseconds chronograph with column wheels, chronograph and split-seconds hands, 60mn counter, subsidiary seconds Dial : matt opalescent, powder rose imprint, 10 applied numerals in 18K rose gold Water-resistance : 30m Strap : alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, matt mother-of-pearl hue, prong buckle in 18K rose gold with 26 diamonds (0.18 ct.)

 

Ladies First Minute Repeater 7000R (LEFT)
Case : 18K rose gold (4N), cambered sapphire-crystal glass, solid 18K rose-gold back and interchangeable display back with sapphire-crystal window Diameter : 33,7mm Movement : self-winding mechanical movement with minute repeater (Caliber R 27 PS with 22K gold minirotor and 48h power reserve) Functions : hours and minutes from the center, subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock, striking mechanism with two gongs (hours on low-pitched gong, minutes on high-pitched gong, and quarter-hours on both gongs) Dial : cream-colored. Transfer-printed in antique rose, 9 applied numerals in 18K rose gold Water-resistance : 30m Strap : alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, matt mother-of-pearl hue, prong buckle in 18K rose gold