Roger Dubuis : Combining high-end complications and a unique design approach…

Roger Dubuis’ unswerving commitment to excellence is vividly illustrated in its own high-tech Manufacture and its 100% Poinçon de Genève-certified production. Today, 31 in-house calibers are produced and decorated entirely by hand to meet the technical, aesthetic and performance requirements of the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Hallmark). Its criteria demand superlative hand-made finishing on all details of every single component, while its extensive scope encompasses stringent testing of water resistance, precision and functions, as well as of the power reserve.  For Roger Dubuis, one of the world leaders in tourbillons and skeleton movements, the Geneva Hallmark is just the starting point in its ongoing quest for excellence. Having founded the firm in 1995 and played a fundamental role in its launch, Mr   Dubuis   now shares his wealth of experience with the Geneva-based Manufacture, as he assumes the role of “natural” ambassador. He devotes his energy to passing on his wisdom and his experience to the innovative young teams of the Movement Development department. The relaunch of the Hommage collection, which Mr Roger Dubuis personally created in 1995, is an eloquent tribute to the traditions and excellence of fine watchmaking, while also paying homage to the creative talent of the ‘founding father’. Comprising movements epitomizing the sense of incredible mechanics that pervades the entire Roger Dubuis range, Hommage is a custodian of the spirit of innovation and quest for reliability that are now so deeply ingrained in the brand’s genetic heritage.

 

When it came time to create the exceptional Hommage Double Flying Tourbillon with hand-made guilloché, the R&D department opted for a deliberately simple display. Adopting a pared down design made it possible to tailor the movement even more closely to the intrinsically traditional nature of the Hommage collection, while also providing even more space in which to offer a contemporary aesthetic interpretation. The result of these deliberations was the RD100, a new movement composed of 452 individually hand-finished parts, which called for 1,200 hours of manufacturing – of which 360 are devoted to meeting the Poinçon de Genève criteria – as well as six full weeks of controls. Such an accomplished mechanism naturally deserved to be showcased to its full advantage. This 2014 new release achieves exactly that in a spectacular new demonstration of Roger Dubuis’ equally intense concern for the inner and outer beauty of its models. Endowed with historical design codes including long slender lugs and a concave bezel, it also features a range of subtle new touches. Doubtless the most striking aspect of the new Hommage Double Flying Tourbillon – and the one that immediately catches and holds the gaze – is the highly original guilloché work on the front.

 

This intricate technical and decorative technique creates a unique, delicate and precise sunburst effect that cannot fail to appeal and intrigue. The ample space provided by the new movement design sparked the creative decision to craft the décor directly on the movement mainplate. The hollowed guilloché work on this model also stands out by its impressive depth, exquisitely manually crafted by passing the tool across each notch or groove at least four times instead of the usual one or two! The size of each must be carefully balanced so as to ensure an harmonious appearance and the resulting 3D effect is indeed truly striking. Recalling that the lines composing the patterns measure mere hundredths of a millimetre (0.05 to 0.1 mm) deep gives a clearer idea of the hair’s breadth precision required to achieve an attractive final result. This is also precisely why the guilloché motifs hollowed out by the graver will never be identical on two given parts – a fact that in turns explains the unique and exceptional nature of each watch with a hand-guilloché dial. The refinement of the traditionally guilloché bridges, associated with the contemporary mechanical beauty of the Roger Dubuis double flying tourbillon with differential ensuring enhanced precision, creates an aesthetic contrast representing an endless source of fascination. Pink or white gold, with or without baguette-cut diamonds, with vertical or circular Côtes de Genève finish on the back: the Hommage Double Flying Tourbillon is offered in four variations in limited editions, each radiating its own distinctive personality.

 

Hommage Double Flying Tourbillon

Case : 18k white or 5N pink gold, sapphire crystal case-back, hand-made guilloché motif on tbe bridges with Côtes de Genève finish, water-resistant to 30m Diameter : 45mm Movement : hand-wound mechanical movement (RD100, 50h power reserve), 452 individually hand-finished parts, double flying tourbillon with differential, rhodium-plated, hand-made guilloché Functions : hours, minutes, double tourbillon Dial : Roman numerals fitted directly on the mainplate, high flange, hand-guilloché bridges Strap : fully adjustable brown strap, genuine alligator, hand-stitched with White or pink gold adjustable folding buckle Limited editions of 28 and 88


Brice Lechevalier is editor-in-chief of GMT and Skippers, which he co-founded in 2000 and 2001 respectively. He has also been CEO of WorldTempus since it joined the GMT Publishing stable, of which he is director and joint shareholder. In 2012 he created the Geneva Watch Tour, and he has been an advisor to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève since 2011. Also closely involved in sailing, he has published the magazine of the Société Nautique de Genève since 2003, and was one of the founders of the SUI Sailing Awards in 2009 and the Concours d’Elégance for motor boats at the Cannes Yachting Festival in 2015.

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