Bvlgari : Italian creativity meets Swiss watchmaking creativity …

Octo Solotempo

Case : 18K pink gold (or solid steel), screw-locked crown in 18K pink gold or steel with ceramic inlay, transparent sapphire crystal caseback, water-resistant to 30m Diameter : 38mm Movement : self-winding mechanical movement (in-house Solotempo caliber with 42h power reserve), bidirectional oscillating weight mounted on ceramic ball bearings, Côtes de Genève, snailed and sandblasted finish, beveled and polished bridge rims, circular satin-brushed wheels, burnished pivots, chamfered pivot- and screw-holes, polished convex screw heads Functions : hours, minutes and seconds, date (instant date change with stop-seconds device)  Dial : white or black lacquered Strap : alligator leather strap or steel (or gold) bracelet with folding clasp


Bvlgari Roma Finissimo 

Case : 18K pink or yellow gold or steel, sapphire back, crown set with a ceramic dot, water-resistant to 30m Diameter : 41mm Movement : mechanical manual-winding (ultra-thin Caliber BVL 128, 65h power reserve), adorned with Côtes de Genève motif and circular graining Functions : hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve on the back Dial : black lacquered for the “collectors” version in yellow gold, opaline silver-toned for the pink gold version, polished black lacquered for the steel version Strap : black alligator leather, pin buckle in yellow or rose gold or steel  Limited series : 100-piece yellow gold edition

For the past two years, the helm of the Bvlgari ship has been entrusted to captain Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of the Bvlgari Group, who has placed his watchmaking and industrial experience as well as his marketing flair in the service of all skills exercised by the cult brand. The repercussions on ladies’ and men’s watch collections are proving impressive, with a range that has been considerably reinforced. Between the brand’s thinnest tourbillon and the 40th anniversary of the Bvlgari Roma line, this tireless traveller who divides his time between Rome and the shores of Lake Geneva agreed to answer a few questions for GMT.


In what respect would you say the new Bvlgari collections mark a turning point in the brand’s watchmaking history ?

From sport to Haute Horlogerie through smart and classic watches, Bvlgari now offers men a complete portfolio of luxury watches. This also applies to women since the launch of Lvcea (Editor’s Note : see page 19), which powerfully marks Bvlgari’s entry into the main luxury women’s watch segment (3,500 – 30,000€). The latter was previously rather sparsely covered with a strongly structured Bvlgari-Bvlgari that tended to polarize opinions with its logo on the bezel, as well as a Serpenti watch that is by nature rather segment-specific. Lvcea enables Bvlgari to add the universal pillar of an extremely sophisticated and feminine watch designed from scratch for women and for them alone. They now have a chance of daily wearing the finest Bvlgari design codes in a watch exuding a distinctly global seduction that is nonetheless global in terms of its sophistication. Finally, Diva rounds off our range in the field of ladies’ jewelry watches in terms of both style and pricing in relation to the existing Astrale and Serpenti collections.


Which new 2015 models would you recommend to women ?

For daytime wear, the new Lvcea 36mm in steel with a diamond-set dial ; and for evenings, the new Serpenti Scaglie jewelry watch.


And which 2015 new releases are your tips for men ?

As an everyday model, the new Diagono Scuba in pink gold on a rubber strap, and for going out, the new Octo Finissimo small seconds in pink gold or the Bvlgari Roma Small Seconds in the collection whose 40th anniversary we are celebrating this year.


How do you see Bvlgari’s short-term future ?

I’m not a fortune-teller, but given on the one hand the brand’s strong progress in the field of watchmaking over the past 18 months, with sales growth levels well above the official export figures published by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry ; and on the other, the extraordinary welcome enjoyed by the new launches presented to our retailers at Baselworld, I am reasonably confident that Bvlgari will once again be one of the rare “strongly outperforming” brands among its competitive environment, and also compared with the luxury watch industry in general. And this should apply to both feminine and masculine ranges.


Diagono Magnesium

Case : magnesium and PEEK (polymer) case middle, engraved ceramic bezel, black PVD-coated back; PVD-coated steel crown set with a black ceramic dot; Motorlac-coated case middle surface Diameter : 41mm Movement : mechanical self-winding (42h power reserve) Functions : hours, minutes, seconds, digital vault with secure NFC chip & antenna built into the watch Dial : anthracite, chestnut brown, silver-toned or blue Motorlac coating matching the case middle surfaces Strap : vulcanized rubber with PEEK pin buckle


Octo Finissimo Tourbillon

Case : polished and satin-brushed platinum, 5mm thick, platinum crown with ceramic inlay, transparent sapphire crystal caseback, 30m water-resistant  Diameter : 40mm Movement : ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement (Finissimo Tourbillon caliber, 1.95mm thick, 55h power reserve), 249 parts, 1.95 mm thick tourbillon carriage mounted on a peripherally-driven ultra-thin ball-bearing mechanism, variable-inertia balance requiring no index-assembly, high-end finishing with beveling and Côtes de Genève  Functions : hours, minutes, 1mn flying tourbillon  Dial : polished black lacquered, faceted and rhodium hands  Strap : Black alligator leather strap with platinum pin buckle


Celebrating the 40th anniversary of the cult Bvlgari Bvlgari collection, the new Bvlgari Roma Finissimo is interpreted through three creations of which one is issued in a limited series : the Bvlgari Roma Finissimo in yellow gold. The refined, understated design of the brand’s emblematic watch is matched by the finesse of an ultra-thin mechanical manual-winding Manufacture movement created by its watchmakers and showcasing manual decorative skills such as circular graining, beveling and Côtes de Genève. The two other interpretations, also fitted with a black alligator strap, are in pink gold with an opaline dial, and in steel with a black lacquered dial.


Launched in 2014 as a member of the iconic Octo family, Octo Finissimo Tourbillon embodies the expression of Italian genius and the best of Swiss watchmaking expertise, yielding a concentrated blend of inventive solutions. The quest for thinness has long been one of the watchmaker’s goals, and Bvlgari has reached a new milestone in the development of ultra-thin watches with a major complication : its 1.95-mm-thick movement makes this flying tourbillon simply the slimmest on the market – no others even come close – and the thinnest ever made.


The world-exclusive intelligent Diagono Magnesium concept by Bvlgari is 100% Swiss and affords 100% security, at the opposite end of the spectrum from what the world of ‘smart’ watches is generally able to deliver. This mechanical self-winding watch complies with the codes of luxury while also serving as a ‘vault on the wrist’ or an electronic passport linked to the watch and its wearer, whose confidential data also enjoys absolute protection thanks to the partnership with WISeKey, the leading Swiss firm in the field of digital security and data storage. A cryptographic chip and invisible antenna enable the watch to use NFC (Near Field Communication) to transmit a digital certificate to the Bvlgari Vault application previously configured on the watch owner’s phone with a bank-worthy security level.



Case : curved shape in pink gold set with 6 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.46cts), water-resistant to 30m Diameter : 26mm Movement : Swiss quartz, personalized for Bvlgari (Caliber B033) Dial : black lacquered set with 33 brilliant-cut diamond hour-markers (0.054 cts) Bracelet : spiral shaped in pink gold set with 96 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.01cts), double push-button safety fastening


Diva Jewellery

Case:  white gold case set with 76 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.97cts), 8 tanzanite and 8 turquoises, water-resistant to 30 m Diameter : 39mm Movement : Swiss quartz movement, Bulgari customized and decorated with Bulgari logo (B033 caliber) Dial : snow-set pavé dial (0.29cts)  Strap : grey satin strap with white gold folding clasp set with 14 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.34cts)


Creations brimming with seductive ideal and yet entirely suited to daily living

For more than 130 years, Bvlgari has been creating jewelry and watches distinguished by an aesthetic imbued with its Roman origins and inspiring women the world over. Collections radiating an aura exalted by the actresses and celebrities who have worn them and which prove as enduring as the great classic movies. The Diva jewelry and watch collection draws inspiration from the famous Roman mosaics and the iconic fan-shaped motifs of the Caracalla thermal baths. It is now enriched with four new creations including two in the field of High Jewelry. They feature an arch composed of multicolored gems nested like petals and creating an authentic corolla of precious stones dancing around the gem-set bezel. These sensual and elegant timepieces embody the fascination and mystery exercised by stones, combining the depth of precious gems with the intensity of their semi-precious counterparts. The charismatic faces of the Diva channel Italian charm while expressing the diversity of the moments composing a woman’s day and life.


It was from the mid-20th century onward that Bvlgari began paying tribute to its rich Roman history by reinterpreting the powerful symbol of the snake in a singular collection of Serpenti wristwatches that have come to symbolize the brand. While the vintage models remain much sought-after by collectors at auctions, the stunningly creative new Serpenti jewelry watches are as soft and supple as a second skin. The 2015 version owes as much to the brand’s exceptional creativity in goldsmithing and jewelry as to Italian genius and the meticulous expertise of Bvlgari’s Swiss watchmakers. The sparkling scales of the reptile are individually cut out, crafted and assembled with great care. They are red lacquered or paved with hand-cut and set diamonds. Testifying to the capacity for innovation fostered by Bvlgari, the bracelets of the Serpenti 2015 watches are for the first time not fitted with their traditional inner spring, thereby giving them an undulating feel and pleasing ergonomics entirely suited to everyday wear. Elegantly secured by a double push-button, the bracelet fastening mechanism ensures optimal comfort by means of adjustable links. The coils of the snake and the curved case of Serpenti watch are cut out on the sides and back so as to enable light to shine through and reinforce the brilliance of the diamond paving.


Lvcea in pink gold

Case : 18K pink gold case and crown (approx. 30.68g), cabochon-cut pink stone set with a diamond, water-resistant to 30m Sizes : 33mm (also available in 28 and 36mm) Movement : quartz or self-winding mechanical movement (Caliber B77, 42h power reserve) Functions : hours, minutes, seconds, date Dial : white or black mother-of-pearl dial, brilliant-cut diamond hour-markers Bracelet : 18K pink gold links, triple-blade folding clasp


Lvcea in steel

Case : Steel, water-resistant to 30 m Sizes : 33mm (also available in 28 and 36mm) Movement : quartz or self-winding mechanical movement (Caliber B77, 42h power reserve) Functions : hours, minutes, seconds, date Dial : white or black mother-of-pearl dial, brilliant-cut diamond hour-markers  Bracelet : steel links, triple-blade folding clasp


Lvcea in white gold

Case : 18K white gold case and crown (approx. 30.68g) set with 43 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.204cts), cabochon-cut pink stone set with a diamond, water-resistant to 30m Sizes : 36mm (also available in 28 and 33mm) Movement : self-winding mechanical movement (Caliber B77, 42h power reserve) Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date  Dial : black with sunburst guilloché motif ; pink gold-plated hands, hour-markers and Roman numerals Strap : blue alligator leather triple-blade folding clasp in 18K white gold


Having become an international bestseller right from the time of its launch in 2015, the Lvcea collection pursues its development, continuing to express the inseparable ties between light and time. Lvcea brilliantly embodies the perfect balance between simplicity and sophistication and features a “day and night” style that makes it a favorite with celebrities, to be worn on red carpets as well as in the street. For Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Senior Director Bulgari Watches Design Center, “Lvcea is an authentic expression of Italian culture and expertise, of which its dial is the most significant expression. It owes its name and its design to its illustrious forebear, the sundial. The latter instrument served as a timepiece in Ancient Egypt, where the oldest models have been discovered. Today, the dial of the Lvcea is sculpted with a decor that draws the eye towards the center while also guiding it outwards. Light was of course the key element in the operation of the sundial. It has inspired the aesthetic of this luminous watch that plays on the radiance of white gold, pink gold or steel, while the dial is lit up by sparkling diamonds, shimmering mother-of-pearl or glistening silver.” The unusual shape of the bracelet with its trapeze-type links echoes the Serpenti collection, the cornerstone of the Bvlgari style. The result is a unique structure that is not merely decorative. The powerful design asserts itself across the case, crown and even the tip of the crown so as to depict a constantly evolving geometrical trapeze shape. Lvcea thus establishes itself as a perfectly recognizable ladies’ watch that is definitely Bvlgari, even though it bears no logo.

Rédacteur en chef des magazines GMT et Skippers dont il est le cofondateur depuis 2000 et 2001, Brice Lechevalier est aussi à la tête de WorldTempus depuis son intégration dans la société GMT Publishing, qu’il dirige en tant que co-actionnaire. Il a par ailleurs créé le Geneva Watch Tour en 2012 et conseille le Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève depuis 2011. Côté nautisme, il édite aussi le magazine de la Société Nautique de Genève depuis 2003, tout en étant membre fondateur des SUI Sailing Awards (les prix officiels de la voile suisse) depuis 2009 et du Concours d’Elégance de bateaux à moteur du Cannes Yachting Festival depuis 2015.

Review overview