Breguet : Tradition Automatic Retrograde Seconds 7097

Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097

Case : 18K white or pink gold with finely fluted caseband, sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30m Diameter : 40mm Movement : mechanical automatic (Breguet Caliber 505SR1, 50h power reserve), inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns, Breguet silicon balance spring, 237 parts Functions : hours, minutes, retrograde small seconds Dial : offset at 12 o’clock, in hand-guilloché silvered 18K gold, visible baseplate Strap : leather, pin buckle

With this new launch at Baselworld 2015, Breguet is celebrating two centuries of “subscription” watches – the first pre-ordered timepieces from the brilliant company founder – as well as a decade of the Tradition collection. When the brand unveiled in 2005 the very first wristwatch in which part of the dial was replaced by the baseplate supporting the movement organs, devotees of avant-garde design were delighted and sceptics made no secret of their reserves. 10 years later, the Tradition line has achieved iconic status and well-informed observers note the sporadic appearance of models betraying similar inspiration and rolled out by brands not too concerned with authenticity. Yet inspiration and execution are not always equally matched, since the indispensable mastery and the incomparable experience needed to achieve such uniform finishing on the finely shotpeened bridges and plates leave no doubt as to the expertise required.

This daring stage-setting also pays tribute to the intrinsic qualities of the beautifully enhanced mechanical elements: barrel, escapement, bridges, wheels and other parts appear to be levitating above the baseplate. As too does the pare-chute at 4 o’clock, a device invented by Breguet to protect the balance staff from shocks and that would later give rise to the incabloc system. This mechanical ballet thus attractively highlighted is not the only sight to be enjoyed by the wearer of the Tradition Automatic Retrograde Seconds 7097 and his entourage, since the show continues on the upper part of the dial with harmoniously arranged timekeeping indications. Sweeping around the engine-turned and numbered dial, hollow-tipped Breguet in blued steel catch the eye, as does the offset retrograde seconds sweeping across the circular-brushed flat semi-circle at 10 o’clock. Also visible through the sapphire crystal of this must-have collector’s piece, the silicon Breguet balance spring and the inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns symbolise the technical innovation also characterizing this great name in the domain of haute horlogerie, whose aesthetic expertise is paired with high precision and technological excellence.


Brice Lechevalier is editor-in-chief of GMT and Skippers, which he co-founded in 2000 and 2001 respectively. He has also been CEO of WorldTempus since it joined the GMT Publishing stable, of which he is director and joint shareholder. In 2012 he created the Geneva Watch Tour, and he has been an advisor to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève since 2011. Also closely involved in sailing, he has published the magazine of the Société Nautique de Genève since 2003, and was one of the founders of the SUI Sailing Awards in 2009 and the Concours d’Elégance for motor boats at the Cannes Yachting Festival in 2015.

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